Moderne Socks - Finished!

I finished up my Moderne Socks yesterday morning while watching the rest of the Fleece & Harmony wool cast, and the latest John Arbon Textiles vlog, and then random classical guitar and lute videos.  This is it for the Janel Laidman sock patterns.  I do have one more skein of club yarn, but I think I will use it for  a Cookie A sock pattern instead.  I looked at the Janel Laidman pattern that it was intended for and it just didn’t excite me at all.  This skein of Expression Fiber Arts came as part of a trio called Spring’s Promise and when I was putting the remnants of this skein back in the box I pulled out the other two skeins and decided that they really need to become socks, so I caked them up and went pattern searching and found patterns, that were already in my library, for both.  So even though Socktober is over, I will continue with the sock knitting.

Pattern:  Moderne by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Moderne Sock - Second Sock - Heel Turned!

And here is proof that I have not forgotten the second Moderne Sock.  I did actually cast on pretty much as soon as I had finished the first sock, and I’ve completed the leg and turned the heel and am working the foot.  I have just started the gusset decreases, which are all on the top of the foot.  Now that I have the Tahari Tank through all the interesting parts I can turn my attention back to this project and get it finished up so I can start the last Janel Laidman sock club sock in my stash.

Pattern:  Moderne by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Moderne Socks - One Sock Done!

I finished up the first sock last night, but it was not without some challenges.  There is a chart for the toe, and you have to pick the right spot to start it.  I had seen comments on project pages about the fit of the toe so I was a bit concerned about starting that last chart in the “right” spot.  My first attempt started the chart too early, and I ended up with too much toe left at the end of the chart.  No problem, I thought, I can just work a few more rows and decreases and it will be fine.  Well, it wasn’t fine, for a couple of reasons.

Yeah, no toe should look like that.  And it doesn’t work any better on a foot.

At this point it was time to exercise, so I put it back in the project bag and went downstairs for my daily workout.  While exercising I pondered my next move and decided to just rip back and try again, which I did, at which point I noticed another mistake that I had made way back when I started working the gusset.

See that column of purl 1, knit 2, purl 1 near the bottom of the foot?  Yeah, it shouldn’t be there.  That should just be knit.  Don’t ask, I don’t understand how I messed it up, but I did.  So, I dropped down those columns of purl stitches (they are on both sides of the foot) and picked them back up as knit stitches.  Pretty easy, really.  And then I got back to that toe.  I worked a few more rounds before starting the final chart and everything was going great until I decided to check my stitch counts and discovered that I had one less stitch on the top of the foot than I was supposed to have.  I checked my knitting and discovered that I had done an extra decrease way earlier in the chart.  I thought about it for a few minutes and decided I was not going to go back and fix that one as I had already ripped back once.  I just did an extra decrease on the same side on the bottom of the foot and called it good.  I’ll repeat the mistake on the other sock, but do it on other side so that whichever way I put them on both mistakes will either be on the inside or the outside of my foot.  Now I will go cast on sock two.

Pattern:  Moderne by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Sylvan Socks - Finished!

My Sylvan Socks have also come off the sock blockers.  I love how they came out, and am so glad that I was able to use the original club yarn, the subtle color variations are really beautiful.  The fit is also excellent.

Pattern:  Sylvan Socks by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Abstract Fiber Mighty Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Moderne Socks - One Leg Done!

I have been making good progress on my Moderne Sock, completing the leg of the first sock yesterday afternoon.  I like the patterning, Janel could design really cool socks, and I’m glad that I did the twisted knit stitches in chart one instead of regular knit stitches.  I do think it looks better.  There was an error in this pattern as well when it came to shifting the stitches prior to working the heel flap to center the design so that it continues onto the top of the foot correctly.  Fortunately another knitter had already noted the issue, and it wasn’t hard to figure it out just from looking at the charts.  I am also really enjoying the yarn.  This is the first time I have actually knit with Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock, although I have used some of their other yarns.  I love the colors, especially that yellow spiral going around the leg.

Pattern:  Moderne by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Moderne Socks - Cast On!

I finished up the Sylvan Socks yesterday afternoon, so last night I cast on the last of the Art & Sole Sock Club sock patterns - Moderne.  The original club yarn was destroyed by carpet beetles, and all that I have left is the yarn label.

The yarn is discontinued, and I had no luck in finding a replacement, so I went to the Yarn Substitution website and found a substitution.  The very first yarn listed as a possible substitute, with a 99% match, was Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock.  Now I have a fair bit of Expression Fiber Arts yarn in my stash, including several skeins of Resilient Sock.  So I did a quick search on my Stash page and came up with the skein above.  It is even orange (the original color was Slice of Orange).  I do not know the color name for this skein as it came as part of a trio called Spring’s Promise, and the original bag it came in is gone.  I am making a modification to the pattern - the first chart is a lot of purls and knits that are forming a sort of broken rib, which then flows into Chart 2 which has twisted rib (knit through the back loop, purl) and it just seemed odd to me that I was not knitting those stitches in Chart 1 through the back loop, so I decided to make that change.

Pattern:  Moderne by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Resilient Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

 

Sylvan Socks - Sock One Done, Sock Two Cast On…and More!

These socks have been a very quick knit.  I finished up the first sock Saturday afternoon.  I have taken to working the Kitchener stitch on the toes while I am wearing the sock, that way I can pull the yarn snug and not worry about things being too tight.  It really does make that part easier, in some respects, although you do have to be flexible enough to get your knee to your chest (not something I have a problem with).  After finishing it up and weaving in all the ends I immediately cast on the second sock.  By early Sunday afternoon I had finished up the leg.

I worked the heel flap, turned the heel and started on Chart 3 Sunday evening, and finished up Chart 3 this morning.

I’ll finish up this sock in pretty short order and then I think I will do another sock (it is Socktober, after all).  I have one more sock pattern in this club to make, and even though the original yarn was destroyed by carpet beetles I did find an excellent substitute in my stash and it is all caked up and ready to go.

Pattern:  Sylvan Socks by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Abstract Fiber Mighty Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Sylvan Socks - Cast On!…And More!

I finished my Garnet Cassie on October 16 - it is now blocking - so I decided to knit the next Janel Laidman sock pattern in my unofficial queue - the Sylvan Socks.  I had the yarn already caked up and in my sock project bag, along with needles of the correct size, so it was all ready to go.  Full disclosure, I actually cast on back on October 8 because I had finished the bodice of the Garnet Cassie and wanted to take photos before moving on to the body, but it was too late for photos, but not too late for more knitting.  The yarn is the original club yarn - Abstract Fibers Might Sock - and is 50% superwash merino and 50% tencel, which is probably what saved it from the predation of the carpet beetles that destroyed much of the other club yarns.  I have only found two thin spots that I had to break and rejoin so far (keeping fingers crossed that my luck continues to hold).  I will confess that I had my doubts about the yarn, but it has grown on me.  I do like the shine, and the very subtle coloring.  The above photo was actually taken on the morning of October 10, and that was all that I did on this project until I had cast off my Garnet Cassie.

After finishing one repeat of Chart 1, I took a quick picture this past Thursday (October 16), my Garnet Cassie having been finished and laid out for blocking.

I finished up the leg that evening.

Friday morning found me working the heel flap and turning the heel while catching up on my Long Thread Media podcasts, although I redid the pick up of the stitches along the heel flap later that afternoon.

By Friday evening I had finished up Chart 3 (Chart 2 being the rib pattern for the heel flap).  Chart 3 presented the first issue.  As you can see the gusset decreases are actually on the top of the foot, and are part of Chart 3, which has you decrease at the beginning and end of every other row, but the first row requires 35 stitches, and you only have 33.  I just omitted the decreases on that first row, and everything worked out fine after that.  At some point I shifted stitches from the bottom of the foot needle to the top of the foot needle so that all of my bottom of the foot stitches were knit stitches, and the ribbed portion was on the top of the foot needle.  For the last 6 rows of Chart 3, you start working lifted increases on the sole of the foot, as the decreases on the top of the foot are taking you below the starting stitch count for the sock.  The pattern does not indicate which lifted increase (left or right) to use before and after the 3 stitches that you do them on either side of, and for those three increases I did them on the first and last of the 3 stitches.  When I got to Chart 4 I changed that to the stitches before and after the 3 stitches, which looks better, but I did not go back and fix those first increases.  I will do them consistently on sock two.

Chart 4 presented the next challenge because there were several errors.  For Chart 4 you continue decreasing 2 stitches on the top of the foot, and increasing 2 stitches on the bottom of the foot, and yet Chart 4 has a constant stitch count, and the stitch count is 33 stitches.  The only way to do that is if you keep slipping stitches from the bottom of the sock to the top of the sock, and who wants to do that every other row?  The pattern does not include any instructions to that effect, either, although you can infer that something is going on by the fact that when you get done with Chart 4 the instructions tell you to slip 1 stitch from the top of the sock to the sole so that you have 32 stitches on each needle.  In any case, I did not do any slipping of stitches until I had finished Chart 4, which I finished up this morning.  In knitCompanion I un-highlighted the extra knit stitches in Chart 4 so that I had a consistent 7 knit stitches before and after the patterning.  I also kept the central double decrease in knit (there are two rows where it looks to be purled), so that entire line of stitches is knit stitches.  The purl columns from the heel flap are gradually consumed in Chart 4 until only 2 purl columns remain.

And here is the sock after Chart 4 is completed.  I have to say, the fit is really good.

And here is a look at the patterning on the top of the foot.  All I need to do now are the rounds until I get to the toe decreases.

Pattern:  Sylvan Socks by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Abstract Fibers Might Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Rosemary - Finished!

After finishing up my Purple Haze Tredegar Scarflette, I did work some on my Garnet Cassie Slipover, but I decided to finish up my Rosemary socks.  I cast these on back in June, about four months ago, and I just wanted to get them done.  I finished up the first sock back on September 25 and finished up the second sock on October 2, so one week for one sock.  Of course, these do have a lot of cabling, so they are not as quick a knit as a less ornate sock might be.

The fit is perfect and I’m very happy with how they came out.  These were one of the sock patterns from Janel Laidman’s Knitterati club, from over a decade ago.  She has since pretty much vanished from the knitting scene.  I still have two more sock patterns in this club to knit, and have the yarn caked up and in my sock project bag, and the pattern set up in knitCompanion for the next one that I’m going to do when I’m ready to cast on.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarns Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

Rosemary - Sock Two, Foot Done!

I finished up the foot this past Sunday afternoon (and am almost halfway through Chart 2 on the leg), while watching our Sunday line-up of weekly news shows.  Although I have cast on my Garnet Cassie, I decided to focus on this project and get it finished up before I really jumped in to another Cassie Slipover.  When I was working I definitely was a poly knitter, with lots of projects on my needles - typically on the order of two dozen!  Since retiring I have reduced the number of projects down to twelve, and I’m trending toward project monogamy.  That may be due, in part, to my trend towards multi-craftualism.  There is only so much creative energy to go around.  My biggest challenge is that I want to make all the things, and time is finite, even if ambition and imagination are not.  

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

Rosemary - One Sock Done!

I have been focusing on this project for the past few days and last night I cast off sock number one.  I did one full repeat of chart 2 on the foot and one full repeat of chart 2 on the leg.  I thought about doing a second repeat on the leg, but given that the ribbing at the top is 24 rows, I decided not to.

The fit is pretty good.  After finishing up sock one I immediately cast on sock two (no second sock syndrome here) and I’m already past the toe increases and working chart 1.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

Rosemary - Foot Done!

I haven’t touched this project since early June, but Saturday evening I pulled it out and started working on it again.  I made it through the rest of Chart 1 and almost to the point where I needed to start the gusset increases Saturday evening, and then made it through the gusset, the heel turn and the heel flap on Sunday.  I did lifted increases for all of my increases, at this point I just need to knit the leg.  I knit all of Chart 1 and one full repeat of Chart 2 on the foot.  I have been using my Lumos neck light when working on this one as well, with the tight gauge and all the cabling it just makes seeing the stitches easier.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

Rosemary - Chart 1 Almost Done

I have been making progress on my Rosemary sock and have almost made it through chart 1.  I am enjoying the knit and the yarn is very nice to work with.  With all the cabling these will definitely be house socks, I don’t think I have any shoes that I could put these socks into.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

Rosemary - Cast On!

One of the skeins in Box F1, which I am working my way through (more or less) is this luscious red skein of Alpha B Yarn by Elite B.  It is 80% Superwash Merino, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon, and came to me as part of Janel Laidman’s Knitterati club, so it is a two-fer.  It continues my knitting up of the Knitterati club patterns (at least the sock patterns), and helps me knit up the yarn in Box F1.

As can be seen in the picture, it is knit toe-up, which is a sock construction method that I truly enjoy, although I am not doing any special shaping on the toe.  I used Judy Becker’s magic cast on, as slightly modified by the Sockmatician.  This design has lots of cables.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn by Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

 

Taliesin Socks - Finished!

And they are done!  The second sock went quickly, although I did have a couple of tinking episodes.  My pick up on the gusset on the right hand side wasn’t right, but I didn’t realize it until I had worked a couple of rows, so I had to tink that back and do it over.  The second issue was during the toe graft when my back needle slipped and I dropped a stitch and didn’t realize it right away and the stitch dropped down two rows before I caught it, but I did catch it.  I got out my neck lamp, undid the entire graft (which admittedly was only 13 stitches) and redid it.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Sock - One Sock Done!

Once I got to the foot, things went quickly.  I did not do the foot as it was designed in the pattern - there was some unusual shaping and I just didn’t want to deal with it.  Plus, when I’m knitting cuff down I like to shape my toes so that they actually match the shape of my real toes, which for a left foot involves doing most of my decreases on the left side as you might be able to see in the picture below.  When I get to the end of the foot I just keep trying on the sock as I go and making decreases as needed, recording what I’m doing (in this case on my Ravelry project page).  When I get to the end of the toe I graft the stitches while the sock is on my foot, so I can pull the stitches snug without worrying about them being too tight.   While it may be a tad awkward to do, when I do it this way my toe grafts always come out great.

I did discover that my gauge is not as tight as the gauge called for in the pattern.  I had already discovered that my row gauge was different when I was working the heel flap, as I only worked 26 rows instead of 32 as called for in the pattern.  I had my suspicions regarding the stitch gauge, but I needed a stretch of stockinette to get a decent stitch gauge measurement.  Once my suspicion was confirmed, I put in one of my afterthought lifelines and ripped back to the last gusset decrease and did an extra set of decreases on the top and bottom of the foot to take the stitch count down to 64 from 68 (I was making the medium size).

I do love working the heel turn and gusset, they still seem like magic to me.

This was probably the try on that led me to rip back.  I had only knit four or so rounds after the last gusset decrease.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Sock - Two Legs Done!

Last night I finished up the leg on sock two.  This one went a bit faster as I mostly avoided the mistake I kept making on the first leg (starting the next round half way round the sock).  The pattern on the bottom half of the leg is mostly the same, just a little four row stitch pattern on the long column of stitches, and it was hard to read (dark yarn, tiny stitches).  I only had to tink back once on the second leg.  The progress keeper attached to the sock near the end of the round definitely helped keep me on track.  On to the heel flap.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Sock - One Leg, and One Cuff Finished!

Finally, I’ve finished the leg of one sock.  Dark yarn, and a stitch pattern that I kept messing up despite its apparent simplicity, even after I added a progress keeper as another visual queue for the beginning of the round, in addition to the yarn tail that I typically use.  Now I will work the leg on the other sock, having already worked the cuff and the Latvian braid on that one.  Hopefully I will not make as many mistakes on that one, and it will go quicker.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Socks - Take Two!

So I was working on these socks this afternoon and thinking “man, this gauge is really tight, what needle size am I using?  And why?”  Well, I was using a 2.25 mm (US 1).  The pattern calls for. 2.5 mm, which is also labeled as a US 1, although Ravelry calls it a US 1.5.  I frogged and started over and it is so much easier to work, and it fits better.  This time when I did the Latvian braid I didn’t bother with casting on the extra stitch at the start.  I just worked the first stitch, put it back on the left hand needle and then knit in to the back of the second stitch and then into the first stitch.  Rinse, repeat.

Pattern:  Taliesin by Janel Laidman

Yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh Sock in Flashdance

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Socks - Cast On!

Actually I cast on these socks over a year ago (best guess - November of 2023), knit 9 rows of the ribbing and then just sort of forgot about them.  I discovered them when I was setting up my project box for Tessellation Nation.  The project was hiding in a Harris Tweed project bag that I had purchased from The Woolly Thistle.  When I had stashed it in the project bag I had failed to stash the yarn label with the yarn, so the first thing I did was hunt that down.  I have a large zip lock bag that has the Janel Laidman patterns along with yarn and that is where I found the yarn label, although I did go down a rabbit hole because there was a yarn label that had Taliesin Sock on it.  That yarn was used for the Damselfly Socks.  This yarn is Madelinetosh Tosh Sock in the Flashdance colorway.  The original skein was a total loss due to evil bugs, so it was pitched.  Fortunately I was able to procure another one.  The yarn does not match what is in the photo, but some sleuthing on Ravelry (looking at project pages for the pattern) allowed me to make the match.

I did not work the Latvian braid as she called for in the pattern (and in the video link she provided), with a second strand of yarn.  I worked a Latvian braid the way I learned how, where you make a stitch, put it back on the left hand needle, then knit into the back of the second stitch, and the front of the first stitch and drop them both off the left hand needle.  Then you transfer the first stitch on the right hand needle to the left hand needle as if to knit and repeat.  A video by Romi showed me how to join when I got to the end of the round.  You do end up with an extra stitch, so I did a decrease at the beginning of my second needle (I work on two circulars).  I also changed out the beads as I wasn’t crazy about the ones that were provided with the pattern.  Fortunately I have an excellent bead stash.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm0