Mulberry Nila - Front and Back Yokes!

Once I got to the halfway point in my second skein I decided to work on the front yoke.  My primary concern was that when I started working the third skein I would be at the same point on both the front and the back, or pretty close, anyway.  The first skein went further on the front than it did on the back.  I started the second skein on the front about the spot where I joined the two front pieces.  I have now started working the back again using the other end of the skein so that I can try to keep the yarn usage even and switch to the next skein at about the same point on both the front and the back.  I also wanted to get both going so that I could make sure that my armhole is deep enough, and with the construction it just didn’t seem as straightforward to measure things and be sure that I was getting it right.  I’ve tried it on to make sure of the fit, as well as trying it on my dress maker dummy.

I think it is looking pretty good.

And it is looking pretty even.  I think I can alternate rows between the front and the back until I use up this skein, and then switch to the next one.

I do have a little more ways to go before I can join the front and the back, but it’s getting there.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Kiri

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Fancy Hen - Finished!

And she is all done, and packed up and waiting to be picked up out of my mailbox and sent on her way to her new home.  Putting the knit blockers inside to open things up really helped speed up the drying, and I was able to stuff her yesterday afternoon and sew up the bottom.  That was a little bit fiddly at the beginning and end of the opening, especially at the end, but I managed to make things look neat and tidy.  She is adorable, I may have to make another one for myself.  It is a pretty quick knit, if you focus on it, although the needles that I used had very sharp points, so my index finger tips did get a little bit sore from being poked - even when I tried to be careful and not use my finger tip to push on the needle tips.  The gauge is tight, as required by something that you’re going to stuff, so the knitting is not effortless.  I can do two-handed Fair Isle with a color in each hand, which makes the knitting go pretty fast, and the yarn easy to control.  It doesn’t take much yarn - about 50 grams/120 yards for the body and 25 grams/60 yards for the contrast.  I used a 16 inch circular needle for the body, and then used two 16 inch circular needles for the neck/head and tail, as well as the beak.

Pattern:  Fancy Hen by Ella Austin

Yarn:  Rauma Garn 3-Trads Strikkegarn

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Tessellation Nation - Making Progress

No that I have a path forward I’ve been making progress, making pentagons and joining things as I go, filling in the diamonds, boats and stars as I can.  I changed the diamonds to be essentially two star points, with an extra triple crochet, so I work one extra chain before anchoring.  It is far easier and quicker to make as compared to what the pattern calls for, which was definitely very fiddly.

Pattern:  Tessellation Nation by Sue Maton

Yarn: Scheepjes Terrazzo

Hook:  3.75 mm (F)

Fancy Hen - Knitting Done!

I finished up the body this past Saturday, and once the body was done, the head and tail worked up quickly and I finished all the knitting on Saturday as well.  I did make one slight modification to the pattern, I did not like the look of the knitted comb, it just seemed too big, so instead I did a line of single crochet along the top of the head, and then worked three sets of half-double, double, and triple crochet stitches to create the scallops.  Then came the blocking.  I started out just laying it flat and pinning the bottom edge to combat the inevitable stockinette stitch curl, but after letting it sit a couple of days I realized that it was going to take forever to dry - two layers of colorwork fabric - so I changed how I was blocking it.  I put knit blockers inside the body to open it up, and then put T-pins through the edge to prevent curling.

That sped things up considerably.  I checked it this morning and it is almost dry.  The side that was in contact with the blocking mats is still just slightly damp, so I flipped it over this morning and put the knit blockers back inside again to hold it open.  I did not pin the edges as they are dry.  Hopefully it will all be dry tomorrow and I can stuff her and sew her up and get her on her way to her home.

Pattern:  Fancy Hen by Ella Austin

Yarn:  Rauma 3 trads Strikkegarn

Needle:  US 2.5 (3 mm)

Fancy Hen - Cast On!

There has been a craze lately for knitted comfort chickens, and not so long ago I spotted a kit for a Fancy Hen on the Woolly Thistle web site.  It was pretty adorable, and I have a friend who likes chickens, so I decided to knit her one.  I also have some chicken-themed tea towels to send her along with the knitted chicken.  I picked out some colors and ordered the kit and at the end of June I finally cast on.  After the first few rows it sat around for a little while, but this past week I have been working on it a little more steadily.  To make it easier I added some markers to identify where the increases go, and I also switched the type of increase I was using.  The pattern calls for picking up the strand between stitches, but that is a bit fiddly, so I went with lifted increases.  At this point I am through all of the increases, and halfway through the colorwork.  The colorwork was one of the things that drew me to this pattern.

My cast on edge was curling a lot and it was annoying me, so I clipped the cast on edges together to keep them from doing that.  This is my first time using this yarn, it is Norwegian, and is, as they say, rustic, but I have lately come to appreciate the qualities of yarn that hasn’t been superwashed, which really does strip it of any woolly characteristics.

Pattern:  Fancy Hen by Ella Austin

Yarn:  Rauma Garn 3-Trads Strikkegarn

Needle:  US 2.5 (3 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Cast On!

Having finished up a couple of things I decided to cast on a new project.  Plus, having completed my Practically Handspun vest I wanted to make another garment.  This will become Nila by Natasja Hornsby, also known as Moonstruck Knits.  I’ve been wanting to knit it for a while, and actually swatched for the patten over a year ago.  I also knew that I wanted to make it out of one my Unique Sheep Gradiance sets, and chose the Mulberry set.  I had been knitting a dress in this set, but I didn’t like how it was coming out so I frogged it.

The top is worked top down, and this is the back.  It has some interesting shaping, as well as a surface texture.  I started with the fourth skein of the set, and have reserved the first three skeins for the sleeves, which are not full length.  I will do the cuffs and collar with one of the darker skeins for contrast.  I am making good progress on the upper back, although I did have to rip back seven rows because I had forgotten an increase.

I used a little less than half of skein 4, and have started working with skein 5.  My gauge came out a little tighter than the pattern called for so I went up a size to compensate.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  Kiri by The Unique Sheep

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Finished!

I finished the knitting this past Saturday, and did the bind off and blocking Sunday morning.  I still have some of the purple and the orange left over.  The lighter purple that forms the main body is all used up.  The length came out perfect - it just comes down to my knees.  I am delighted with it, my first garment out of handspun yarn.  It wasn’t super consistent yarn either, but it wasn’t bad.  The knitting looks good.

I like the way the color blocking worked.  Please pardon the hall-way selfie, it is too hot to model this outdoors.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Wild T. Whiffit - Finished!

Way back in 1979, Bernat released this latch-hook kit.  According to the poster on the reverse of the instructions, it was part of the Wonderful Wide World of Whiffits.  I have no idea what a whiffit is, and google searches came up empty.

According to the poster, the T stands for Tiger.  I have always loved tigers (having been born in the year of the Tiger) but I would never want an actual tiger skin rug, so this seemed a perfect solution.  Fun, and whimsical.  I did the latch-hook part right away, and sewed one ear front and back together, and then the parts traveled with me through my life and around the country for the next forty-six years!  The amazing thing is that I did not lose any of the pieces, or the materials.  The materials, and the all-important instructions, traveled in a box from a Rike’s department store (a Dayton, Ohio store) that is probably long since gone, along with two embroidery hoops and an old margarine container of beads and sequins (probably from a Christmas ornament kit).  It should be noted that the only thing neatly contained in the box were the beads and sequins, the organizing of the yarn bits was done today.

When I was organizing my studio after my retirement I pulled everything out and promised myself that I would finally finish it.  The hardest part, of course, was assembling the head.  The top of the head was part of the body, but the sides and the throat were all separate pieces and had to be stitched together.  The instructions said to whip stitch the canvas edges down, and sew the pieces together with the wrong sides facing, matching up marks to make sure that everything lined up correctly.  The problem with that approach is that as soon as you sewed the canvas edges down you could no longer see the all-important marks that you needed to line up.  So instead I assembled with the right sides facing, and did a running stitch through the canvas grid, tightening things as I went.  It made the assembly easier, but then I had to turn the head right side out.  That was a bit of a struggle, but I managed it without tearing anything apart.  Stuffing the head was easy, but used a fair bit of stuffing.  Sewing the ears on was also a little difficult, I whip stitched those in place.  I have also basted the canvas edging under to prepare it for the final finishing.  The instructions call for rug binding, and I have some coming tomorrow, but I might get some felt and just back the whole thing.  The head is just adorable.

And Jezebel approves, as can be seen in this photo of her laying on it after I had partly stuffed the head, but before the ears were attached.  She is a little bit hard to see, being a black cat.

Tessellation Nation - Take Four?

So I have been noodling around with this one for, oh, six months now.  Trying out different designs and color combinations and just not finding anything that really got me excited, although in the process I’ve had fun and learned lots.

I started out with some of my favorite colors - teals and purples and made a couple of pentagon circles.

That really didn’t go anywhere, although I like the color combinations.

I made more progress on my next iteration, but still just wasn’t feeling it.  Then I ordered a color card for the Scheepjes Terrazzo yarn, which helped my design process immeasurably.

Next I thought I would try a gradient of pinks for my background.  But that wasn’t sparking me either.  I had printed out an asymmetric grid (no motifs) to keep track of my progress on this last go and as I was working I just became fascinated by the shapes and how they interacted.  So I went back to basics and decided to kick it old school.  I printed out another asymmetric grid and got out my colored pencils and made the design in the first picture.  No motifs, just shapes and colors.  In the end I decided on just six shapes - pentagon 1 (I love making these, they are like potato chip crochet), stars, boats, diamonds, medallions and mandalas.  No small flowers, no 5-petal flowers, no 10-petal flowers.  Instead of small flowers, I’m using pentagons in that shape.  The next challenge was the colors for those.  I had decided I wanted a central pentagon with a green frame, and then 5 petal pentagons with a blue frame.  My first attempt at the colors wasn’t quite right.

I ordered some more colors and they came yesterday and last night I started yet again.

Finally something that got me smiling and nodding “yes!”.  I’m even going to be able to use those pink pentagons that I made.  I’m not sure what to do with all those other attempts.  I suppose I could turn them in to dodecahedrons.

Pattern:  Tessellation Nation by Sue Maton

Yarn:  Scheepjes Terrazzo

Hook:  F (3.75 mm)

Practically Handspun - Six Skeins Done!

My Practically Handspun keeps growing.  When I’m working on it and dealing with the bulk of the knitting that is completed I start to have second thoughts about my plans, but then I try it on or put it on my dress make dummy for a photo and think that it is going to work out the way I imagine it.  I think it will look great with black leggings, a black turtleneck and boots, and then I can add a dramatic necklace.  I am on the last set of skeins - Purple Haze - and they are a pretty nice set of skeins, which keeps tempting me to go do something else with them.  But I do think I should stay the course on this one.

I am doing increases on the sides every 10 rows to give it an A-line shape.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich 

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top from The Woolery

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Starry Night - Finished!

I finished this up this past Wednesday, knitting while watching PLY Guild videos - Season 1, Foundations, the episode on spindle spinning, which mostly convinced me that I don’t want to do that (even though spindles are such a beautiful and simple tool).  As a side note, I’ve found the videos to be extremely well done, and useful, and am happy that I backed them on Kickstarter, and am a lifetime member as a result.  But back to knitting.  I love how this came out.  I know the yarn label says “Super Sock”, but maybe it really should be called “Super Soft”.  It has a wonderful drape, and also feels very light.  The top fits me perfectly, just the right amount of ease and length.  I even have the perfect set of jewelry to wear with it.  I honestly think it was the perfect yarn for this pattern.

The colorway was a two-skein set by Sundara Yarn, inspired by Van Gogh’s Starry Night.  I did not do any of the patterning in the main colorway (the blue) knowing that it just would not show up, but I love the way the different blues stripe, and the contrast between the darkness of the top half and the light and airy bottom half.  It is just dreamy.  I went up a size, knowing my gauge did not match the pattern (I had more stitches and rows per inch than the pattern called for), and added extra length in the bottom half (after chart E).  I had plenty of both colors, although I did use more of the blue.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Super Sock by Sundara Yarn

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)
 

Starry Night - Time For Chart E!

I have finished knitting the 3.5 inches after placing the sleeve stitches on holders and casting on underarm stitches.  Per the pattern, the rest of the body is supposed to come out to 6.5 inches, so based on my row gauge I need another 16 rows of the yellow to make everything come out correctly.  I should have enough of the blue to do the few rows on the body between chart E and chart F, but I’m not sure if I will have enough to work the few rows on the sleeves before I work chart G.  We’ll see.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Sundara Yarns Super Sock

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Three Skeins Done!

Another skein knitted up.  I’m in the mindless part, just increases every 10 rows to give a slight A-line silhouette, which is a modification to the pattern that I made at some point.  I was thinking about making two of these vests out of these sets of my handspun, but have now decided that I’m just going to keep knitting on this one until all the yarn is gone, using it from thickest (mostly) to thinnest.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - 2 Skeins Done!

I finished up Skein 11d, and started working with Skein 12b.  The transition between Skein 11d and Skein 12b worked out perfectly at the end of a row.  If I had been thinking things through a little more I might have started with Skein 12b, and then worked either Skein 11d or Skein 12c.  That would have me working from the thickest yarn to the thinnest.  But that is not what I did, and I think it looks just fine as it is.  At this point I had finished Skein 12b, and have cast off the stitches for the sleeve caps.  I am now working with Skein 12c, then I’ll use Skein 12a.  If I still need more length I’ll use Skein 11c.  I am enjoying the knitting.  There is something extra special about working with your handspun, imperfect though it may be.

This is a nice shot of the yoke that I forgot to post.  I like the garter stitch bands.

I have enough yarn that I can make a second vest using up Skein 11 and all of Skein 13.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich 

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Cast On!

Having used up Skeins 7 and 10 of my handspun yarns I looked to the next set of skeins that I had spun:    Skein 11.  Skein 11 is actually 4 skeins, spun from 250 grams of Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top in the colorway Cornucopia bought from The Woolery.

The four skeins are, from left to right:

Skein 11a - 26 grams, 49 yards or 1.88 yd/g

Skein11b - 44 grams, 76 yards or 1.73 yd/g

Skein 11c - 89 grams, 145 yards or 1.62 yd/g

Skein 11d - 89 grams, 130 yards or 1.46 yd/g

As you can see from the numbers, my singles and my finished yarn were getting thicker as I spun this top up and settled into a good single thickness.  I have been trying to decided for some time now what to make out of this yarn, along with the other three of the Rosie’s tops that I had spun up.  I had pretty much settled on a vest based upon the yardage, but I still couldn’t settle on a design that would maximize the usage and minimize the work of figuring out how to use it.  Yesterday I decided that I was just overthinking the whole thing and so I cast on another Practically vest by Kelly Herdrich, my 12th time making this pattern.  What can I say?  It is an easy knit, looks great on, and is a great way to use up those precious skeins.  I pulled out Skein 11d and caked it up yesterday and cast on.  When I use up that skein I will actually switch to Skein 12, which is really 3 skeins, and is also from 250 grams of Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top, in colorway Valentine.

For this spin I was focusing on consistency, and having settled into that slightly thicker single on Skein 11d, they all have a similar thickness to that skein.  From left to right:

Skein 12a - 79 grams, 115 yards or 1.46 yd/g

Skein 12b - 79.6 grams, 111 yards or 1.4 yd/g

Skein 12c - 84.3 grams, 121 yards or 1.44 yd/g

If I still need more length I will grab Skein 11c to finish, although I would kind of like to do something else with Skeins 11b and 11c.  Skein 11d I am thinking of weaving up on my Zoom Loom.  I think the colors would like nice with the plum squares that I wove up from Skein 10.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Skein 10 Zoom Loom Squares - Finished!

My skein 10 was thicker than Skein 7, so I used my Zoom Loom and made squares.  It worked quite well, although weaving the final weft was a bit challenging at time due to the thicker yarn, so sometimes I had to resort to sewing the weft, but they came out great.

Skein 7 Turtle Loom Hexies - Finished!

I finished up the rest of Skein 7 making hexies on my Turtle Loom.  It was a lot of fun and I got pretty good at it by the end.  I have no idea what these will become, for now I will continue to use up my handspun on my pin looms and collect pieces.

Foxgloves - Finished!

This was a super quick knit - three days.  And I still had yarn left over.  I used about 2/3rd of my skein 10 of my handspun.  As a reminder, this is the yarn that I used.

They fit perfectly, and I got to use my mitten blockers for the first time!  There are even little inserts for the thumbs.

Pattern:  Foxgloves by Clara Parks

Yarn:  Handspun

Needle:  US 3 (3.25 mm)

Turtle Loom Hexies

At some point in the past, I’m not sure exactly when, I bought a Turtle Loom from The Woolery.  Why?  Because I must have all of the tools so that I can do all of the things, at least when it comes to fiber.  It sat around for a long time in an old project bag.  The project bag was an early one, an L.L. Bean tote in custom colors, back when they were doing that.  I ordered several and used them for years.  The loom was rediscovered after I retired when I was organizing my studio (using booth infrastructure from my days working for my sister at Bead & Button, and schlepping the infrastructure back and forth in my Element).  It was given a home that made it easily accessible for use, and waited patiently for me to notice it again.

I finally got it out after I had finished the Hydrangea Neckwarmer and still had some yarn left over (Skein 7 of my handspun) and learned how to use it.  It is very simple, and also lots of fun, if a little fiddly, especially towards the end.  I have made two hexies from the leftovers and have more to use up.

I have no idea what these will become, but I’m sure that I will think of something.  In the meantime I will continue to accumulate hexies made from my handspun.

The original skeins.  This skein was made on my original niddy noddy, which makes the shorter skeins, I have since bought an adjustable one that makes the longer (2 yard) skeins.  They are so much easier to work with!  Especially when dyeing.

Foxgloves - One Mitt Done (Almost)

Well, I still have to work the thumb, but most of the knitting is done.  I’m going to knit the second mitt and then do both thumbs.  This is more of my handspun, the next skein in the line-up to get used, Skein 10.  I have been trying to be diligent about using my handspun in a project soon after it is made.  The last thing I need is more stash accumulation.  It took me two tries to get the fit right.  The first time I mostly followed the pattern, except that I extended the thumb gusset far beyond what the pattern called for.  But when I got up past that point I tried it on and realized that the cuff was too long and that I was at risk of running short of yarn if I didn’t make some mods.  Here is a picture of the first attempt.

You can see how much cuff there is.  So I ripped it all the way back and started over, starting the thumb gusset early.  The pattern has you put the thumb stitches on waste yarn after you finish the increases, but that would have left me with a very short thumb gusset, and I have a long palm and a muscular thumb.

Even after shortening the cuff, it is still substantial.  I know that if I had knit the pattern exactly as written it would not have fit my hand, at all.  Fortunately I have no qualms about on the fly modifications.

This is the skein that I used.  It was spun on my Kromski at 12:1 and plied on my Kiwi at 9.5:1.  I ended up with 135 yards, and 86.4 grams, or 1.56 yards/gram.   I dyed it using my Wool Tincture Dyes kit, and the color is Plum.

Pattern:  Foxgloves by Clara Parks from the book Brave New Knits

Yarn:  Handspun, Skein 10

Needle:  US 3 (3.25 mm)