Bolster Cover 3 - Cast On!

As soon as I finished the colorwork for the second bolster cover I immediately cast on another one.  I have two bolster forms to cover.  This one is a bit of a different vibe.  I had these two skeins and I knew I wanted to use them together, but I really did not want that dark brown to be the background, so I decided to flip things, so the variegated yarn is the background and the dark brown is the motif color.  I had also fallen in love with the octopus motif so I decided on an ocean theme.  Looking at the row counts and how many rows I need for one of these covers (106) I ended up picking three different motifs:  OCTOPUS, SEASHELL, and SQUID.  The order of knitting will be:  OCTOPUS, SEASHELL, SQUID, SQUID (with the chart flipped so it points in the opposite direction), SEASHELL, OCTOPUS.  I cast on with the dark brown and worked one row before switching to the variegated yarn and beginning the first chart.  This time I did cast on 96 stitches, so I am repeating the motif four times around.  I am also using stitch markers between the repeats.  I know that the variegated yarn does have some dark runs that almost match the background color, which does obscure the motifs in places, but I think it just adds to the mystery of the creatures.  Once again, these motifs are all taken from The Doodle Knit Directory by Jamie Lomax.

I reproduced them in Pattern Genius, exported them to PDF, and imported them in to knitCompanion.

Pattern:  Improvised

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Enduring Worsted

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Bolster Cover 2 - Colorwork Finished!

The knitting on this went super fast. In between colorwork projects I seem to forget how addictive it is.  My gauge obviously changed between the 5 rows of stockinette at the beginning and end, and the 96 rows of colorwork in between.  If I were doing this again I would work an increase round to bring the colorwork section stitch count up to 96.  This would have allowed me to work the leaf pattern four times around, instead of three, and I wouldn’t have had to modify the pattern at all.  But, I love how it came out and I think my additions look great.  Now I just have to wait for it to dry.  Worsted weight, colorwork, it is going to take a little while.  The colorwork pattern is LEAVES 13 from The Doodle Knit Directory by Jamie Lomax.

Pattern:  Improvised

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Enduring Worsted

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Finished!

I finished this last Wednesday, August 6, and blocked it that morning.  I didn’t really do anything special to block it, just laid it out.  No pinning or stretching.

By Friday morning it was dry, being a fingering weight yarn helps a lot.  Things did relax a bit, so the fit is a bit looser than I thought it would be, but it is all good.  I prefer a little more ease.  The sleeves also came out longer - I knit them until I had used up the three skeins I had reserved for them, so they were going to be as long as they were going to be.  They are pretty much full length, stopping just shy of my wrist bone.  It has a nice drape to it.

Overall, I’m very pleased with how it came out.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Kiri in the Mulberry Ombré 

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm), US 2 (2.75 mm)

Bolster Cover 2 - Cast On!

Recently I have started using the round bolster pillow that I created using some of my early handspun yarn to provide extra support to my lower back when I’m on my daybed (my usual spot these days) and it occurred to me that maybe Bruce would like one as well.  He had a special pillow that he has been using for years that is definitely past its best by date.  So, I purchased some more bolster pillow forms and checked my stash for some suitable yarn.  I ended up going with Expression Fiber Arts Enduring Worsted.  I had three three-skein sets that had the potential to work together. 

I pulled them out and, after letting them mingle for a day, decided on the two caked skeins at the bottom.   Given that I am improvising, and have no idea of how much yarn I will actually need I decided to do colorwork figuring that it would give me a lot of flexibility, and pulled out The Doodle Knit Directory by Jamie Lomax and started looking for a pattern that I liked.  I settled on the leaf, given the fall colors I had picked.  I had already cast on 90 stitches with the darker color, based upon my guess at the gauge and the circumference of the pillow, so I was pretty much committed to that stitch count.  The pattern I picked, however, was 24 stitches, not the 30 that I needed for an even repeat.  No problem.  I opened up Pattern Genius and set up a chart that was 30 stitches by 24 rows and proceeded to reproduce the stitch pattern, then I added some of the minor motifs to the blank space that I had to fill, exported it to PDF, pulled it in to knitCompanion and set up my chart.  Easy Peasy.

I need to work 4 repeats of the chart, plus another 5 rows and a bind-off to get the length that I need.  The end caps I will do with crochet circles using one (or more) of the remaining skeins.  Based upon my yarn usage so far I may have enough in the two skeins to get there.  I weighed them before I cast on, and weighed them after finishing the first repeat and so far things are looking good.  I will weigh them again after finishing the second repeat, which will be my half-way point.  If I don’t have enough of the background color I will simply swap the two colors and use the lighter one for the background and the darker one for the motif.

Before I started spinning and working with my handspun I would never have been so bold as to just jump into a design like this.  It is incredibly liberating and has really energized my creativity.  Of course being retired helps a lot as my brain power is not being sucked up by work anymore.

For reference, here is the bolster pillow that inspired this project.

It is a pretty unassuming little thing, but it made good use of two skeins of handspun that I really didn’t know what else to do with.  They were early spins and not very consistent.  In fact, my gauge changed when I changed skeins, but foam and knitting are both forgiving mediums.

Pattern:  Improvised

Yarn:  Expression Fiber Arts Enduring Worsted

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Sleeve Caps!

I love a top-down set-in sleeve.  As long as the armhole is the right depth and you pick up the right number of stitches to get the sleeve diameter that you want the result will be a perfectly fitting sleeve.  At least that has been my experience.  I use the method laid out in Barbara Walker’s Sweaters from the Top Down to work my top-down set-in sleeves, and it is very simple and easy to follow.  I did not follow the pattern directions for the short rows to shape the sleeve caps, as there were (in my opinion) too few short rows to get me a sleeve cap that would fit.  I also did not do German short rows, just wrap and turn, and no working of the wrap on the return row.  If I had followed the pattern directions I would have worked a lot fewer short rows as the pattern called for working 3 stitches past the double stitch before turning, and I worked up to the previous wrapped stitch, and then wrapped the next stitch and turned.  I did use the pattern directions as guidance on the number of stitches to pick up.

I will continue to work the sleeves together, alternating between them as I use up the first three skeins of my set.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby 

Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Kiri

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm), US 2 (2.75 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Body Finished!

I have been focused exclusively on this project since July 22, and I finished up the body yesterday.  Once I joined the front and back the knitting took on the fairly monotonous quickness of working endlessly in the round.  The mindlessness interrupted by the lace panels, and the monotony interrupted every four rows by the k1, p1 round that gives the top its texture.  I used up skeins 4-9 of my 12 skein set on the body, and used skein 10 for the ribbing both at the hem and at the neckline.  I will also use it for the ribbing on the sleeves as a way of tying everything together.  As an ombré gradiance this set is not as successful as other sets in the series, and that has been part of my challenge with using it.  Even with the strong color blocking, and the fact that skeins 9 and 10 have a decidedly different hue than the others I think it is all going to work out okay, especially with using skein 10 as the contrast edging.   The ribbing is a k1tbl, p1 rib, and is knit on a smaller needle size. The fit is perfect so far.  On to the sleeves!

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Kiri

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm) and US 2 (2.75 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Front and Backs Joined!

Last night I got to the point where I thought that the front and back yokes were long enough to join for the body.  When I started working with the third skein I had the front and back yokes synced up with regards to length (when wearing) as well as where they were in the pattern repeat, so I worked them at the same time from both ends of my yarn cake.  Once they were where I thought they needed to be I measured them (as per the pattern) and darned if they didn’t match the measurements for the pattern size I was working.  I will confess to being a little dubious given the unusual shoulder construction, but it all works out.  I decided to complete the armhole shaping for the back, so I could cut the yarn and then do the armhole shaping for the front and join for working in the round.  When I was working those first couple of rounds I did pull out my markers (which were a motley of different colors) and just went with the beginning of round marker, but quickly decided having markers to identify the different stitch pattern sections was a nice thing to have.  I can read my knitting easily enough and so can see where they switch, but when I start knitting on autopilot it is easy to work a stitch or two of the next section, but in the pattern from the old, and then have to tink back, which just takes time and breaks my rhythm.  So I fished out enough of the green markers to mark everything, my beginning of round marker is yellow.

I tried it on and the fit looks perfect, now I just have to knit round and round until the body is long enough.  The ribbed edgings will be done in a darker color from this gradiance set, just because I like to do things like that.

This is the set that I am using, and you can see how those last four skeins in the top right get really dark.  I started with the fourth skein (going right to left on the bottom row).  The first three skeins I will use on the sleeves.  I should have yarn left over from this project, which I am going to use as the contrast color for another of her patterns - Maeron.  I will knit that one in the Denim Ombré, which was actually dyed to go with this one.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Kiwi in the Mulberry Ombré 

Needle;  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Front and Back Yokes!

Once I got to the halfway point in my second skein I decided to work on the front yoke.  My primary concern was that when I started working the third skein I would be at the same point on both the front and the back, or pretty close, anyway.  The first skein went further on the front than it did on the back.  I started the second skein on the front about the spot where I joined the two front pieces.  I have now started working the back again using the other end of the skein so that I can try to keep the yarn usage even and switch to the next skein at about the same point on both the front and the back.  I also wanted to get both going so that I could make sure that my armhole is deep enough, and with the construction it just didn’t seem as straightforward to measure things and be sure that I was getting it right.  I’ve tried it on to make sure of the fit, as well as trying it on my dress maker dummy.

I think it is looking pretty good.

And it is looking pretty even.  I think I can alternate rows between the front and the back until I use up this skein, and then switch to the next one.

I do have a little more ways to go before I can join the front and the back, but it’s getting there.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Kiri

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Fancy Hen - Finished!

And she is all done, and packed up and waiting to be picked up out of my mailbox and sent on her way to her new home.  Putting the knit blockers inside to open things up really helped speed up the drying, and I was able to stuff her yesterday afternoon and sew up the bottom.  That was a little bit fiddly at the beginning and end of the opening, especially at the end, but I managed to make things look neat and tidy.  She is adorable, I may have to make another one for myself.  It is a pretty quick knit, if you focus on it, although the needles that I used had very sharp points, so my index finger tips did get a little bit sore from being poked - even when I tried to be careful and not use my finger tip to push on the needle tips.  The gauge is tight, as required by something that you’re going to stuff, so the knitting is not effortless.  I can do two-handed Fair Isle with a color in each hand, which makes the knitting go pretty fast, and the yarn easy to control.  It doesn’t take much yarn - about 50 grams/120 yards for the body and 25 grams/60 yards for the contrast.  I used a 16 inch circular needle for the body, and then used two 16 inch circular needles for the neck/head and tail, as well as the beak.

Pattern:  Fancy Hen by Ella Austin

Yarn:  Rauma Garn 3-Trads Strikkegarn

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Tessellation Nation - Making Progress

No that I have a path forward I’ve been making progress, making pentagons and joining things as I go, filling in the diamonds, boats and stars as I can.  I changed the diamonds to be essentially two star points, with an extra triple crochet, so I work one extra chain before anchoring.  It is far easier and quicker to make as compared to what the pattern calls for, which was definitely very fiddly.

Pattern:  Tessellation Nation by Sue Maton

Yarn: Scheepjes Terrazzo

Hook:  3.75 mm (F)

Fancy Hen - Knitting Done!

I finished up the body this past Saturday, and once the body was done, the head and tail worked up quickly and I finished all the knitting on Saturday as well.  I did make one slight modification to the pattern, I did not like the look of the knitted comb, it just seemed too big, so instead I did a line of single crochet along the top of the head, and then worked three sets of half-double, double, and triple crochet stitches to create the scallops.  Then came the blocking.  I started out just laying it flat and pinning the bottom edge to combat the inevitable stockinette stitch curl, but after letting it sit a couple of days I realized that it was going to take forever to dry - two layers of colorwork fabric - so I changed how I was blocking it.  I put knit blockers inside the body to open it up, and then put T-pins through the edge to prevent curling.

That sped things up considerably.  I checked it this morning and it is almost dry.  The side that was in contact with the blocking mats is still just slightly damp, so I flipped it over this morning and put the knit blockers back inside again to hold it open.  I did not pin the edges as they are dry.  Hopefully it will all be dry tomorrow and I can stuff her and sew her up and get her on her way to her home.

Pattern:  Fancy Hen by Ella Austin

Yarn:  Rauma 3 trads Strikkegarn

Needle:  US 2.5 (3 mm)

Fancy Hen - Cast On!

There has been a craze lately for knitted comfort chickens, and not so long ago I spotted a kit for a Fancy Hen on the Woolly Thistle web site.  It was pretty adorable, and I have a friend who likes chickens, so I decided to knit her one.  I also have some chicken-themed tea towels to send her along with the knitted chicken.  I picked out some colors and ordered the kit and at the end of June I finally cast on.  After the first few rows it sat around for a little while, but this past week I have been working on it a little more steadily.  To make it easier I added some markers to identify where the increases go, and I also switched the type of increase I was using.  The pattern calls for picking up the strand between stitches, but that is a bit fiddly, so I went with lifted increases.  At this point I am through all of the increases, and halfway through the colorwork.  The colorwork was one of the things that drew me to this pattern.

My cast on edge was curling a lot and it was annoying me, so I clipped the cast on edges together to keep them from doing that.  This is my first time using this yarn, it is Norwegian, and is, as they say, rustic, but I have lately come to appreciate the qualities of yarn that hasn’t been superwashed, which really does strip it of any woolly characteristics.

Pattern:  Fancy Hen by Ella Austin

Yarn:  Rauma Garn 3-Trads Strikkegarn

Needle:  US 2.5 (3 mm)

Mulberry Nila - Cast On!

Having finished up a couple of things I decided to cast on a new project.  Plus, having completed my Practically Handspun vest I wanted to make another garment.  This will become Nila by Natasja Hornsby, also known as Moonstruck Knits.  I’ve been wanting to knit it for a while, and actually swatched for the patten over a year ago.  I also knew that I wanted to make it out of one my Unique Sheep Gradiance sets, and chose the Mulberry set.  I had been knitting a dress in this set, but I didn’t like how it was coming out so I frogged it.

The top is worked top down, and this is the back.  It has some interesting shaping, as well as a surface texture.  I started with the fourth skein of the set, and have reserved the first three skeins for the sleeves, which are not full length.  I will do the cuffs and collar with one of the darker skeins for contrast.  I am making good progress on the upper back, although I did have to rip back seven rows because I had forgotten an increase.

I used a little less than half of skein 4, and have started working with skein 5.  My gauge came out a little tighter than the pattern called for so I went up a size to compensate.

Pattern:  Nila by Natasja Hornsby

Yarn:  Kiri by The Unique Sheep

Needle:  US 2.5 (3.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Finished!

I finished the knitting this past Saturday, and did the bind off and blocking Sunday morning.  I still have some of the purple and the orange left over.  The lighter purple that forms the main body is all used up.  The length came out perfect - it just comes down to my knees.  I am delighted with it, my first garment out of handspun yarn.  It wasn’t super consistent yarn either, but it wasn’t bad.  The knitting looks good.

I like the way the color blocking worked.  Please pardon the hall-way selfie, it is too hot to model this outdoors.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Wild T. Whiffit - Finished!

Way back in 1979, Bernat released this latch-hook kit.  According to the poster on the reverse of the instructions, it was part of the Wonderful Wide World of Whiffits.  I have no idea what a whiffit is, and google searches came up empty.

According to the poster, the T stands for Tiger.  I have always loved tigers (having been born in the year of the Tiger) but I would never want an actual tiger skin rug, so this seemed a perfect solution.  Fun, and whimsical.  I did the latch-hook part right away, and sewed one ear front and back together, and then the parts traveled with me through my life and around the country for the next forty-six years!  The amazing thing is that I did not lose any of the pieces, or the materials.  The materials, and the all-important instructions, traveled in a box from a Rike’s department store (a Dayton, Ohio store) that is probably long since gone, along with two embroidery hoops and an old margarine container of beads and sequins (probably from a Christmas ornament kit).  It should be noted that the only thing neatly contained in the box were the beads and sequins, the organizing of the yarn bits was done today.

When I was organizing my studio after my retirement I pulled everything out and promised myself that I would finally finish it.  The hardest part, of course, was assembling the head.  The top of the head was part of the body, but the sides and the throat were all separate pieces and had to be stitched together.  The instructions said to whip stitch the canvas edges down, and sew the pieces together with the wrong sides facing, matching up marks to make sure that everything lined up correctly.  The problem with that approach is that as soon as you sewed the canvas edges down you could no longer see the all-important marks that you needed to line up.  So instead I assembled with the right sides facing, and did a running stitch through the canvas grid, tightening things as I went.  It made the assembly easier, but then I had to turn the head right side out.  That was a bit of a struggle, but I managed it without tearing anything apart.  Stuffing the head was easy, but used a fair bit of stuffing.  Sewing the ears on was also a little difficult, I whip stitched those in place.  I have also basted the canvas edging under to prepare it for the final finishing.  The instructions call for rug binding, and I have some coming tomorrow, but I might get some felt and just back the whole thing.  The head is just adorable.

And Jezebel approves, as can be seen in this photo of her laying on it after I had partly stuffed the head, but before the ears were attached.  She is a little bit hard to see, being a black cat.

Tessellation Nation - Take Four?

So I have been noodling around with this one for, oh, six months now.  Trying out different designs and color combinations and just not finding anything that really got me excited, although in the process I’ve had fun and learned lots.

I started out with some of my favorite colors - teals and purples and made a couple of pentagon circles.

That really didn’t go anywhere, although I like the color combinations.

I made more progress on my next iteration, but still just wasn’t feeling it.  Then I ordered a color card for the Scheepjes Terrazzo yarn, which helped my design process immeasurably.

Next I thought I would try a gradient of pinks for my background.  But that wasn’t sparking me either.  I had printed out an asymmetric grid (no motifs) to keep track of my progress on this last go and as I was working I just became fascinated by the shapes and how they interacted.  So I went back to basics and decided to kick it old school.  I printed out another asymmetric grid and got out my colored pencils and made the design in the first picture.  No motifs, just shapes and colors.  In the end I decided on just six shapes - pentagon 1 (I love making these, they are like potato chip crochet), stars, boats, diamonds, medallions and mandalas.  No small flowers, no 5-petal flowers, no 10-petal flowers.  Instead of small flowers, I’m using pentagons in that shape.  The next challenge was the colors for those.  I had decided I wanted a central pentagon with a green frame, and then 5 petal pentagons with a blue frame.  My first attempt at the colors wasn’t quite right.

I ordered some more colors and they came yesterday and last night I started yet again.

Finally something that got me smiling and nodding “yes!”.  I’m even going to be able to use those pink pentagons that I made.  I’m not sure what to do with all those other attempts.  I suppose I could turn them in to dodecahedrons.

Pattern:  Tessellation Nation by Sue Maton

Yarn:  Scheepjes Terrazzo

Hook:  F (3.75 mm)

Practically Handspun - Six Skeins Done!

My Practically Handspun keeps growing.  When I’m working on it and dealing with the bulk of the knitting that is completed I start to have second thoughts about my plans, but then I try it on or put it on my dress make dummy for a photo and think that it is going to work out the way I imagine it.  I think it will look great with black leggings, a black turtleneck and boots, and then I can add a dramatic necklace.  I am on the last set of skeins - Purple Haze - and they are a pretty nice set of skeins, which keeps tempting me to go do something else with them.  But I do think I should stay the course on this one.

I am doing increases on the sides every 10 rows to give it an A-line shape.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich 

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top from The Woolery

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Starry Night - Finished!

I finished this up this past Wednesday, knitting while watching PLY Guild videos - Season 1, Foundations, the episode on spindle spinning, which mostly convinced me that I don’t want to do that (even though spindles are such a beautiful and simple tool).  As a side note, I’ve found the videos to be extremely well done, and useful, and am happy that I backed them on Kickstarter, and am a lifetime member as a result.  But back to knitting.  I love how this came out.  I know the yarn label says “Super Sock”, but maybe it really should be called “Super Soft”.  It has a wonderful drape, and also feels very light.  The top fits me perfectly, just the right amount of ease and length.  I even have the perfect set of jewelry to wear with it.  I honestly think it was the perfect yarn for this pattern.

The colorway was a two-skein set by Sundara Yarn, inspired by Van Gogh’s Starry Night.  I did not do any of the patterning in the main colorway (the blue) knowing that it just would not show up, but I love the way the different blues stripe, and the contrast between the darkness of the top half and the light and airy bottom half.  It is just dreamy.  I went up a size, knowing my gauge did not match the pattern (I had more stitches and rows per inch than the pattern called for), and added extra length in the bottom half (after chart E).  I had plenty of both colors, although I did use more of the blue.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Super Sock by Sundara Yarn

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)
 

Starry Night - Time For Chart E!

I have finished knitting the 3.5 inches after placing the sleeve stitches on holders and casting on underarm stitches.  Per the pattern, the rest of the body is supposed to come out to 6.5 inches, so based on my row gauge I need another 16 rows of the yellow to make everything come out correctly.  I should have enough of the blue to do the few rows on the body between chart E and chart F, but I’m not sure if I will have enough to work the few rows on the sleeves before I work chart G.  We’ll see.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Sundara Yarns Super Sock

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Three Skeins Done!

Another skein knitted up.  I’m in the mindless part, just increases every 10 rows to give a slight A-line silhouette, which is a modification to the pattern that I made at some point.  I was thinking about making two of these vests out of these sets of my handspun, but have now decided that I’m just going to keep knitting on this one until all the yarn is gone, using it from thickest (mostly) to thinnest.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - 2 Skeins Done!

I finished up Skein 11d, and started working with Skein 12b.  The transition between Skein 11d and Skein 12b worked out perfectly at the end of a row.  If I had been thinking things through a little more I might have started with Skein 12b, and then worked either Skein 11d or Skein 12c.  That would have me working from the thickest yarn to the thinnest.  But that is not what I did, and I think it looks just fine as it is.  At this point I had finished Skein 12b, and have cast off the stitches for the sleeve caps.  I am now working with Skein 12c, then I’ll use Skein 12a.  If I still need more length I’ll use Skein 11c.  I am enjoying the knitting.  There is something extra special about working with your handspun, imperfect though it may be.

This is a nice shot of the yoke that I forgot to post.  I like the garter stitch bands.

I have enough yarn that I can make a second vest using up Skein 11 and all of Skein 13.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich 

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Cast On!

Having used up Skeins 7 and 10 of my handspun yarns I looked to the next set of skeins that I had spun:    Skein 11.  Skein 11 is actually 4 skeins, spun from 250 grams of Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top in the colorway Cornucopia bought from The Woolery.

The four skeins are, from left to right:

Skein 11a - 26 grams, 49 yards or 1.88 yd/g

Skein11b - 44 grams, 76 yards or 1.73 yd/g

Skein 11c - 89 grams, 145 yards or 1.62 yd/g

Skein 11d - 89 grams, 130 yards or 1.46 yd/g

As you can see from the numbers, my singles and my finished yarn were getting thicker as I spun this top up and settled into a good single thickness.  I have been trying to decided for some time now what to make out of this yarn, along with the other three of the Rosie’s tops that I had spun up.  I had pretty much settled on a vest based upon the yardage, but I still couldn’t settle on a design that would maximize the usage and minimize the work of figuring out how to use it.  Yesterday I decided that I was just overthinking the whole thing and so I cast on another Practically vest by Kelly Herdrich, my 12th time making this pattern.  What can I say?  It is an easy knit, looks great on, and is a great way to use up those precious skeins.  I pulled out Skein 11d and caked it up yesterday and cast on.  When I use up that skein I will actually switch to Skein 12, which is really 3 skeins, and is also from 250 grams of Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top, in colorway Valentine.

For this spin I was focusing on consistency, and having settled into that slightly thicker single on Skein 11d, they all have a similar thickness to that skein.  From left to right:

Skein 12a - 79 grams, 115 yards or 1.46 yd/g

Skein 12b - 79.6 grams, 111 yards or 1.4 yd/g

Skein 12c - 84.3 grams, 121 yards or 1.44 yd/g

If I still need more length I will grab Skein 11c to finish, although I would kind of like to do something else with Skeins 11b and 11c.  Skein 11d I am thinking of weaving up on my Zoom Loom.  I think the colors would like nice with the plum squares that I wove up from Skein 10.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)