Interweave Knits Winter 2017

Have you seen the latest issue of Interweave Knits?  I love this magazine.  I love the sophistication of the designs and the great articles.  This issue is no exception.  Click on the picture above to go to the Interweave site for the digital issue, or on the pictures below for the individual patterns.  Here are my favorite patterns from the issue:

The Tullamore Pullover by Brandy Velten:




This pattern is worked in one of my favorite ways - in the round with top-down set-in sleeves

Finished Size: 29¾ (33, 36½, 39¾, 43, 46¼)" bust circumference. Tunic shown measures 33"; modeled with 1" of negative ease.
Yarn: Woolfolk Får (100% Ovis XXI ultimate merino wool; 142 yd [130 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #11 marine blue, 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17) skeins.
Needles: Sizes 6 (4 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm): 24–40" circular (cir), depending on size you are making, and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); stitch holders; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
Gauge: 29 sts and 32 rnds = 4" in charted patt on larger needle; 23 sts and 32 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle. 

The Galway Pullover by Kathy Zimmerman:




This pattern is worked in pieces with the sleeves worked flat and then seamed, but I would modify it to work in the round with top-down set-in sleeves.

Finished Size: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)" bust circumference. Pullover shown measures 40"; modeled with 6" of positive ease.
Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Galway (100% pure wool; 210 yd [192 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #201 slate 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) balls.
Needles: Sizes 6 (4 mm) and 8 (5 mm): straight. Size 6 (4 mm): 16" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); stitch holders; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4" in rev St st on larger needles; 40 sts of Chart B = 6" wide. 

The Killarney Tunic by Sarah Solomon:




This tunic features raglan sleeves and is worked flat and seamed, but could easily be modified to be worked in the round, bottom up, working the sleeves also in the round and joining them when you get to the underarms.  With this pattern I would be tempted to do something more colorful like a gradiance set from The Unique Sheep.  Their Sport Weight Foot Prints yarn is a little thinner than what the pattern calls for, and their Super Wool DK is a little heavier, so some adjusting for gauge would be needed, but given the size range it might be accomplished simply be knitting a different size.

Finished Size: 38½ (40½, 45, 50, 52, 54½, 56½, 58½)" bust circumference. Tunic shown measures 45"; modeled with 11" of positive ease.
Yarn: Karabella Yarns Superyak (50% yak, 50% extra fine merino; 125 yd [114 m]/ 1¾ oz [50 g]): #10151 gray, 10 (10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16) skeins.
Needles: Size 9 (5.5 mm): straight and 16" circular (cir). Size 8 (5 mm): two 16" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); stitch holder; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 15 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles.

The Ennis Pullover by Sarah Solomon:




This pullover is also worked flat and then seamed, but of course I would modify it to work it in the round and with top-down set-in sleeves.

Finished Size: 34½ (36, 39, 42½, 45½, 49)" bust circumference. Pullover shown measures 39"; modeled with 5" of positive ease.
Yarn: Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK (75% extra fine merino, 20% silk, 5% cashmere; 127 yd [116 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #006 pebble, 11 (12, 12, 14, 15, 16) skeins. Yarn distributed by Sirdar USA.
Needles: Sizes 4 (3.5 mm) and 6 (4 mm): straight. Size 4 (3.5 mm): 24" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holder; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 20 sts and 30 rows = 4" in Moss st on larger needles; Chart B = 3½" wide.

The Donegal Sweater by Moira Engel:




And for the favorite man in your life there is this classic sweater.  Worked flat and seamed.

Finished Size: 40 (47, 51½, 56, 58½, 62½)" chest circumference. Pullover shown measures 47"; modeled with 7" of positive ease.
Yarn: The Fibre Co. Arranmore (80% wool, 10% silk, 10% cashmere; 175 yd [160 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): dark blue, 7 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins. Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens.
Needles: Sizes 6 (4 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm): straight. Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 18 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles.

The Bray Cardigan by Josie Mercier:




And rounding out the sweaters is this classy cardigan.  This is worked flat, with body shaping, and then seamed.  I would probably work it in one piece and do top-down set-in sleeves.

Finished Size: 29½ (36½, 40, 43, 50)" bust circumference, buttoned. Cardigan shown measures 36½"; modeled with 2½" of positive ease.
Yarn: Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Worsted (100% wool; 245 yd [224 m]/ 3½ oz [100 g]): #200 Bordeaux, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) balls.
Needles: Sizes 5 (3.75 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm): straight. Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); removable m; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle; eight ¾" buttons.
Gauge: 19 sts and 32 rows = 4" in Box st on larger needles; Wide Braid chart = 3½" wide.

And then there are the beautiful lace projects.  These really got me excited.  The designs are all centered around wedding white, but wouldn't they be luscious in jewel tones?

 The Solstice Capelet by Monika Sirna:




Worked in Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere it would be dreamy to wear.  But if that is too rich for your wallet, there are plenty of other nice next-to-the-skin soft yarns out there.

Finished Size: 41¾ (46, 50)" circumference and 13" tall. Wrap shown measures 41¾".
Yarn: Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 6-ply (100% cashmere; 150 yd [137 m]/1 15/16 oz [55 g]): #00 ivory, 4 (4, 5) skeins (see Notes).
Needles: Size 6 (4 mm): 24" circular (cir). Size 8 (5 mm): straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Marker (m); cable needle (cn); waste yarn for provisional CO; size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook; stitch holder; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 18 sts and 23 rows = 4" in charted patt on larger needles.

The Waxwing Shawl by Susanna IC:


This lovely shawl features almost 900 Swarovski crystals, but you could also use beads.  The yarn called for is a single-ply lace-weight yarn.  I would probably use The Unique Sheep Eos in a gradiance colorway.

Finished Size: 75" wide and 21½" tall.
Yarn: Manos del Uruguay Marina (100% superwash merino wool; 875 yd [800 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #N0026 hueso, 1 skein. Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers.
Needles: Size 7 (4.5 mm): 32" circular (cir). Size 8 (5 mm) for BO. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Tapestry needle; 894 size 6 mm Swarovski rondelle crystals; size 10 (0.75 mm) steel crochet hook; blocking pins.
Gauge: 17 sts and 26 rows = 4" in body patt on smaller needle.

The Brambling Topper by Amy Gunderson:




 Wouldn't this be elegant in a jewel tone?  This pattern is worked in one of my favorite ways - top down in the round.  The increases are worked into the lace pattern - so you could probably modify the pattern to make a lace dress.  And maybe add some beads...wouldn't that be stunning!  This one could also be worked in a gradiance colorway.

Finished Size: 33½ (36¼, 39, 41¾, 44½, 47¼, 50)" bust circumference. Pullover shown measures 36¼"; modeled with 4¼" of positive ease.
Yarn: Fibra Natura Whisper Lace (70% superwash wool, 30% silk; 440 yd [400 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #101 mallow, 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) balls. Yarn distributed by Universal Yarn.
Needles: Sizes 3 (3.25 mm) and 4 (3.5 mm): 24" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 23 sts and 30 rnds = 4" in Winding Paths patt on larger needle.


The Juul Cardigan by Linda Marveng:




This one features a fun combination of styles - the lace sleeves with the tucked stitch cuff and the long attached loop collar.  You could have some fun with color on this one.  It is knit with two strands of yarn held together, so you could use a fingering weight yarn instead.

Finished Size: 35½ (38½, 41, 45, 49, 53)" bust circumference. Cardigan shown measures 41"; modeled with 7" of positive ease.
Yarn: JaggerSpun Zephyr Lace 2/18 (50% merino wool, 50% tussah silk; 1120 yd [1024 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): vanilla, 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins.
Needles: Size 3 (3.25 mm): 12", 16", and 32" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in Lace patt with 2 strands of yarn held tog.

Maria's Veil by Lisa Jacobs:




This is a traditional square shawl worked from the center with knit on edging and could also be worked in a gradiance colorway.

Finished Size: 50" wide and 50" tall.
Yarn: Jamieson's Ultra (50% lambswool, 50% Shetland wool; 212 yd [194 m]/7?8 oz [25 g]): #104 natural white, 11 balls (see Notes). Yarn distributed by Simply Shetland.
Needles: Size 8 (5 mm): 24" and 40" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); waste yarn for provisional CO; size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 19 sts and 31 rows = 4" in Center chart patt.


The Snow Bunting Jacket by Adrienne Larson:




This design is by far my favorite and just took my breath away.  An elegant lace jacket that would look just gorgeous in a jewel tone or a gradiance set.  The body is worked in one piece to the armholes, and the sleeves are worked in the round.  The pattern recommends seaming the sleeves to the body for stability and I agree with them on this one.

Finished Size: 12¼ (14½, 17, 19½)" back width. Jacket shown measures 14½" on model with 32" bust.
Yarn: Mrs. Crosby Loves to Play Reticule (100% superwash merino wool; 840 yd [768 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): crème fraîche, 2 (3, 3, 3) skeins.
Needles: Size 5 (3.75 mm): 32" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
Gauge: 23 sts and 36 rows = 4" in Upper Lace patt.

Have fun creating!

Neptune - Camp Loopy 2016 - Project 3

I finally cast on my third Camp Loopy project yesterday.  I almost dropped out of Camp Loopy last month after becoming very disenchanted with my second Camp Loopy project, but managed to revitalize myself with a project change to the Raspberry Blaze Cape.  Shortly after I found that project the third project was announced and I found one that I liked - the Short-Row Vest by Carol Feller.  The pattern was published in knit.wear Spring/Summer 2014, which I happened to have.  The theme this month is Faraway Lands - so your project has to  incorporate a different country by using a pattern by a designer who lives in a different country, or you picking a pattern named for (or celebrating) something in a different country, or can picking a color that reminds you of a place in a different country.  I decided to go for Ireland and started a pattern search and came up with this pattern.  The designer lives in Cork, Ireland, which, coincidentally, is where my Uncle John (my mother's brother) spent the last years of his life.  I chose Shalimar Yarns Enzo Sport, a yarn that I have not knit with before, and picked as my two colors - Neptune and Glacier.  The picture above is the Glacier.  I did my swatch in Neptune (below).

I picked the colors because their names also evoked faraway lands. Does Neptune have Glaciers?  I don't know, but it sounds romantic.  Of course I did a swatch.  When I looked at the pattern I saw that the gauge was 19 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches.  The pattern also called for a US 6 (4 mm) needle.  The yarn I chose called for a US 4 (3.5 mm) needle and has a recommended gauge of 6 sts per inch.  For my gauge swatch I cast on 28 stitches (24 for the 4 inches and 4 extra stitches for the garter stitch edge - 2 per side).  I worked 33 rows, just to make it easier to work my garter stitch edge before casting off.  My gauge ended up being 22 sts and 32 rows = 4 inches.  From a size perspective, I want to knit the second size (34 inch bust).  This size calls for casting on 108 stitches.  But for my gauge I would need to case on 108(22/19) = 125 stitches.  This falls between two sizes, the third size with 122 stitches cast on and the fourth size with 136 stitches cast on.  After looking at the schematic and noting that the model is shown with 2 inches of positive ease, I'm going to go with the fourth size.

Pattern:  Short-Row Vest by Carol Feller
Yarn:  Shalimar Yarns Enzo Sport in Neptune and Glacier
Needles:  US 4 (3.5 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Finished!

Finally finished.  I sewed one of the inserts in yesterday and sewed the other one in this morning.  It is hard to get a good photo.  The seaming was a lot easier than I thought it would be.  For the inserts I sewed one side and the cast off edge to the body.  I was going to sew one side and the cast on edge, but the cast on edge didn't really provide a good basis for the seam.

This is the first time I've used a Unique Sheep Gradiance set for clothing rather than a shawl, but I don't think it will be the last.  I have a silk charmeuse outfit that will go perfectly under this - a sleeveless top and matching pants that should match the darker colors, but with my gimpy knee I didn't really feel like modeling today.

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Second Insert Done

I have finally finished the second insert for my Open Eye Tunic.  Now I can assemble it and move on to another project.  I have plenty waiting in the wings.  I have been on a sweater kick and have been buying yarn for several sweater projects, some fairly simple, others full of lace.  Blocking this was made a lot more difficult by the fact that I had surgery on my left knee yesterday (to remove an icky skin thing) and can only bend it a little bit.  It makes getting up and down awkward, and I am slow moving around the house and especially going up and down stairs.  But it just gives me another excuse to stay on the day bed knitting all weekend (as if I need any).

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - One Side Insert Done

After a couple of false starts, I've finally finished one of the side inserts.  I used some of each skein of the set - obviously skeins 5 and 6 dominate as I didn't use those skeins in the body.  When I sew the inserts to the body I'll sew the cast on edge (the bottom edge in the picture) to the front and one of the side edges to the back.  I ended up doing 21 repeats of the Cane Stitch chart and used 66 grams of yarn.


Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Front and Back Done and Joined

I actually finished up the front and joined the front to the back at the beginning of September and then I started on the side inserts.  I was knitting away on the inserts on size 5 needles (I had done them both on size 7 but had ripped them out when I started the tunic over on size 5) and had gotten one almost finished when I realized that I was not going to make it.  It wasn't that I was going to run out of yarn, I just hadn't been using it up the way I needed to.  I figured out that I used 2 grams of yarn for every 3 rows of the Cane Stitch chart and that I needed to do 20 repeats of the chart.  Some quick math revealed that I basically needed to use up all of skeins 5 and 6, as well as all of my leftover yarn from the body, so I ripped back.  Then as I was knitting away, carefully weighing and counting I suddenly remembered that I needed to use some of skein 4 to do the armhole and neck edging.  Fortunately I realized this while I was still working with skein 5.  I took a quick break from the inserts and took care of the neck and armhole edges.  Fortuitously, it took exactly the amount of yarn that I had previously used when I was working the insert that I had almost finished - 6 grams.  So, here is the front and back joined and with the edging worked.  I did sew a little bit of the side seams, just enough so I could pick up the stitches around the armhole.  I am currently working repeat 18 on my first insert, and it looks like my yarn usage estimate is a little conservative (I try to always err on the conservative side) as I am only on skein 4.

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Front Done and Blocking

I finished up the front this afternoon.  As on the back, I repeated the eyelet chart twice in the shoulder straps.  Once it is dry I'll join the front and the back using a three-needle bind-off, then I'll start sewing the side seams and figure out how big the side inserts need to be.


Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Back Done and Blocked

I finished up the back last night.  It took me several tries before I liked the way the armhole and neck shaping came out.  The pattern calls for repeating the eyelet chart twice and then repeating the last 4 rows of the eyelet chart until the armhole is the appropriate length, but I found that the k2tog, yo rows made the upper part of that section wider than the rest, so I did another repeat of the eyelet chart, which put me at the perfect armhole length and then went right into the neck and shoulder shaping.  I did a total of 14 repeats of the eyelet chart before I started the shaping, which makes my tunic 28 inches long, measured from the underarm.  The pattern calls for 21.5 inches.

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Thirteen Repeats of Eyelet Chart Done

Skein 3 of my 6 skein set was especially generous so I did 5 repeats of the eyelet chart with it instead of 4.  I also wanted a little more length on the tunic, several of the people that have already completed the pattern have commented on the fact that it seems a little short as specified in the pattern.  My 4th skein is also generous so I'm going to do one more repeat of the eyelet chart before I start the armhole shaping.  The next time you see this project I should be blocking the back.  I've also raveled the side inserts and they are almost dry.  I may have to make them a little bigger than the 15 inches by 15 inches specified in the pattern so that the tunic will fit through the hips.

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Eight repeats of the Eyelet Chart Done

I finished another 4 repeats of the eyelet chart on my Open Eye Tunic today with skein 2.  I had to start skein 3 one row early because I am switching yarns at the edge and have to make the colors match when I do the switch.  I really should be working on my August Crochet Blocks but I am having too much fun with this project.  The lace pattern is pretty easy to memorize as well as execute, even with the decreases on the wrong side.  And the rows are short and the whole thing just moves along quite quickly, and before you know it you've done another repeat of the chart.

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - 4 repeats of eyelet chart done

I started this on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles but I wasn't really happy with the fabric that I was getting and then I made a mistake while I was working the second repeat of the chart so I decided to rip it out and start over again on smaller needles.  The pattern called for US 7 and I got the pattern gauge on US 7 needles.  I had also swatched with US 5 (3.75) needles so I already had a good sense of the gauge, and I prefer US 5 needles with fingering weight yarn so that is what I went with.  I cast on 103 stitches (basically went up a size) and figure that I'll have to do 15 repeats of the chart (total) to get the length required by the pattern.  Knowing that I am using 6 grams of yarn per repeat, some quick math revealed that the front and back (30 repeats total) would use approximately 180 grams of yarn.  At 50 grams per skein, that means I need 3.6 skeins for the body.  I have a 6 skein set and have already set aside skeins 5 and 6 for the side inserts, which leaves skeins 1-4 for the body.  Perfect.  I decided to make it really easy on myself and just do 4 repeats of the chart in each skein.  This uses a little less than half the skein and makes it easy to remember when to switch skeins.  Here are the first 4 repeats using skein 1.  I have already done the first row of the 5th repeat and you can start to see the electric blue in skein 2.  I'll ravel the side inserts this weekend and get that yarn ready to be used again (skein it, soak it, and hang it up to dry).

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke (Interweave Knits, Summer 2013)
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame
Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)

Open Eye Tunic - Swatching

Have you seen the latest issue of Interweave Knits?  The picture above was taken from their web site.  When I saw this pattern I knew that I had to make it, and I knew that it would be stunning in a Unique Sheep Gradiance.  First I checked out the yarn called for - Anzula Luxury Fibers Breeze (65% silk, 35% linen; 750 yd [684 m]/4 oz [114 g]), worked with the yarn held double.  Ah ha, I said to myself, maybe I can substitute one of the Unique Sheep fingering weight yarns and then not have to work with the yarn held double, which frankly I just don't like to do.  At first I thought about using Luxe, because it is my favorite Unique Sheep fingering weight yarn, but then I was working on my Ardent Spring shawl and realized that Tinsel Toes would be a better choice.

Once I finished up my Ardent Spring shawl I had a little ball of Tinsel Toes left over from the border so after that shawl was blocked I started swatching.  First I swatched with size 5 needles, my default needles with fingering weight yarns.  The eyelet lace instructions were written only, no chart, and I am a chart knitter when it comes to lace so I charted the lace pattern as I knit it.  I tried charting it before I knit it, but it is one of those lace patterns that changes stitch counts on some of the rows so it was a bit tricky.  As I knit that first repeat of the pattern I realized that I wanted to make some modifications to it, so did a further two repeats with my modifications.  This resulted in the following swatch:

This swatch is a little smaller than the gauge called for in the pattern (5 stitches and 5.5 rows per inch) so I pulled out my size 7 needles, which are the size called for in the pattern and did two repeats of my modified chart.  This resulted in the following swatch:

Which is just about perfectly on gauge.

I also charted and knit a gauge swatch in the Cane Stitch that forms the side panels on the size 7 needles.

And once again had everything work out perfectly.

When things work out this perfectly, this easily, I take it as a sign from the universe that the project will go well so I went ahead and ordered my yarn.  Because I am not going to have to hold my yarn doubled I will need about half as much yarn as the pattern calls for, with some extra for buffer, so I decided to get 300 g, which will give me about 1200 yards.  It didn't take me long to settle on a color - Electric Blue Flame.  I am going to do the inserts in the light yellow, and then start the body with the dark skein.  I am also going to get some silk and sew a lining for the tunic so I don't have to worry about what to wear underneath it.

Pattern:  Open Eye Tunic by Deborah Helmke, Interweave Knits Summer 2013
Yarn:  The Unique Sheep Tinsel Toes in Electric Blue Flame, swatches done in Rumpelstiltskin
Needle:  US 7 (4.5 mm)