Starry Night - Time For Chart E!

I have finished knitting the 3.5 inches after placing the sleeve stitches on holders and casting on underarm stitches.  Per the pattern, the rest of the body is supposed to come out to 6.5 inches, so based on my row gauge I need another 16 rows of the yellow to make everything come out correctly.  I should have enough of the blue to do the few rows on the body between chart E and chart F, but I’m not sure if I will have enough to work the few rows on the sleeves before I work chart G.  We’ll see.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Sundara Yarns Super Sock

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Three Skeins Done!

Another skein knitted up.  I’m in the mindless part, just increases every 10 rows to give a slight A-line silhouette, which is a modification to the pattern that I made at some point.  I was thinking about making two of these vests out of these sets of my handspun, but have now decided that I’m just going to keep knitting on this one until all the yarn is gone, using it from thickest (mostly) to thinnest.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - 2 Skeins Done!

I finished up Skein 11d, and started working with Skein 12b.  The transition between Skein 11d and Skein 12b worked out perfectly at the end of a row.  If I had been thinking things through a little more I might have started with Skein 12b, and then worked either Skein 11d or Skein 12c.  That would have me working from the thickest yarn to the thinnest.  But that is not what I did, and I think it looks just fine as it is.  At this point I had finished Skein 12b, and have cast off the stitches for the sleeve caps.  I am now working with Skein 12c, then I’ll use Skein 12a.  If I still need more length I’ll use Skein 11c.  I am enjoying the knitting.  There is something extra special about working with your handspun, imperfect though it may be.

This is a nice shot of the yoke that I forgot to post.  I like the garter stitch bands.

I have enough yarn that I can make a second vest using up Skein 11 and all of Skein 13.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich 

Yarn:  Handspun Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Practically Handspun - Cast On!

Having used up Skeins 7 and 10 of my handspun yarns I looked to the next set of skeins that I had spun:    Skein 11.  Skein 11 is actually 4 skeins, spun from 250 grams of Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top in the colorway Cornucopia bought from The Woolery.

The four skeins are, from left to right:

Skein 11a - 26 grams, 49 yards or 1.88 yd/g

Skein11b - 44 grams, 76 yards or 1.73 yd/g

Skein 11c - 89 grams, 145 yards or 1.62 yd/g

Skein 11d - 89 grams, 130 yards or 1.46 yd/g

As you can see from the numbers, my singles and my finished yarn were getting thicker as I spun this top up and settled into a good single thickness.  I have been trying to decided for some time now what to make out of this yarn, along with the other three of the Rosie’s tops that I had spun up.  I had pretty much settled on a vest based upon the yardage, but I still couldn’t settle on a design that would maximize the usage and minimize the work of figuring out how to use it.  Yesterday I decided that I was just overthinking the whole thing and so I cast on another Practically vest by Kelly Herdrich, my 12th time making this pattern.  What can I say?  It is an easy knit, looks great on, and is a great way to use up those precious skeins.  I pulled out Skein 11d and caked it up yesterday and cast on.  When I use up that skein I will actually switch to Skein 12, which is really 3 skeins, and is also from 250 grams of Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top, in colorway Valentine.

For this spin I was focusing on consistency, and having settled into that slightly thicker single on Skein 11d, they all have a similar thickness to that skein.  From left to right:

Skein 12a - 79 grams, 115 yards or 1.46 yd/g

Skein 12b - 79.6 grams, 111 yards or 1.4 yd/g

Skein 12c - 84.3 grams, 121 yards or 1.44 yd/g

If I still need more length I will grab Skein 11c to finish, although I would kind of like to do something else with Skeins 11b and 11c.  Skein 11d I am thinking of weaving up on my Zoom Loom.  I think the colors would like nice with the plum squares that I wove up from Skein 10.

Pattern:  Practically by Kelly Herdrich

Yarn:  Handspun Rosie’s Multicolor Merino Top

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Skein 10 Zoom Loom Squares - Finished!

My skein 10 was thicker than Skein 7, so I used my Zoom Loom and made squares.  It worked quite well, although weaving the final weft was a bit challenging at time due to the thicker yarn, so sometimes I had to resort to sewing the weft, but they came out great.

Skein 7 Turtle Loom Hexies - Finished!

I finished up the rest of Skein 7 making hexies on my Turtle Loom.  It was a lot of fun and I got pretty good at it by the end.  I have no idea what these will become, for now I will continue to use up my handspun on my pin looms and collect pieces.

Foxgloves - Finished!

This was a super quick knit - three days.  And I still had yarn left over.  I used about 2/3rd of my skein 10 of my handspun.  As a reminder, this is the yarn that I used.

They fit perfectly, and I got to use my mitten blockers for the first time!  There are even little inserts for the thumbs.

Pattern:  Foxgloves by Clara Parks

Yarn:  Handspun

Needle:  US 3 (3.25 mm)

Turtle Loom Hexies

At some point in the past, I’m not sure exactly when, I bought a Turtle Loom from The Woolery.  Why?  Because I must have all of the tools so that I can do all of the things, at least when it comes to fiber.  It sat around for a long time in an old project bag.  The project bag was an early one, an L.L. Bean tote in custom colors, back when they were doing that.  I ordered several and used them for years.  The loom was rediscovered after I retired when I was organizing my studio (using booth infrastructure from my days working for my sister at Bead & Button, and schlepping the infrastructure back and forth in my Element).  It was given a home that made it easily accessible for use, and waited patiently for me to notice it again.

I finally got it out after I had finished the Hydrangea Neckwarmer and still had some yarn left over (Skein 7 of my handspun) and learned how to use it.  It is very simple, and also lots of fun, if a little fiddly, especially towards the end.  I have made two hexies from the leftovers and have more to use up.

I have no idea what these will become, but I’m sure that I will think of something.  In the meantime I will continue to accumulate hexies made from my handspun.

The original skeins.  This skein was made on my original niddy noddy, which makes the shorter skeins, I have since bought an adjustable one that makes the longer (2 yard) skeins.  They are so much easier to work with!  Especially when dyeing.

Foxgloves - One Mitt Done (Almost)

Well, I still have to work the thumb, but most of the knitting is done.  I’m going to knit the second mitt and then do both thumbs.  This is more of my handspun, the next skein in the line-up to get used, Skein 10.  I have been trying to be diligent about using my handspun in a project soon after it is made.  The last thing I need is more stash accumulation.  It took me two tries to get the fit right.  The first time I mostly followed the pattern, except that I extended the thumb gusset far beyond what the pattern called for.  But when I got up past that point I tried it on and realized that the cuff was too long and that I was at risk of running short of yarn if I didn’t make some mods.  Here is a picture of the first attempt.

You can see how much cuff there is.  So I ripped it all the way back and started over, starting the thumb gusset early.  The pattern has you put the thumb stitches on waste yarn after you finish the increases, but that would have left me with a very short thumb gusset, and I have a long palm and a muscular thumb.

Even after shortening the cuff, it is still substantial.  I know that if I had knit the pattern exactly as written it would not have fit my hand, at all.  Fortunately I have no qualms about on the fly modifications.

This is the skein that I used.  It was spun on my Kromski at 12:1 and plied on my Kiwi at 9.5:1.  I ended up with 135 yards, and 86.4 grams, or 1.56 yards/gram.   I dyed it using my Wool Tincture Dyes kit, and the color is Plum.

Pattern:  Foxgloves by Clara Parks from the book Brave New Knits

Yarn:  Handspun, Skein 10

Needle:  US 3 (3.25 mm)

Rosemary - Chart 1 Almost Done

I have been making progress on my Rosemary sock and have almost made it through chart 1.  I am enjoying the knit and the yarn is very nice to work with.  With all the cabling these will definitely be house socks, I don’t think I have any shoes that I could put these socks into.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

Starry Night - Yoke Done!

Even though I have been focusing on sock knitting, I have not abandoned my Starry Night Tee (unlike Tessellation Nation, which has been languishing).  This project is something I can work on while reading, or while watching TV that I need to actually watch.  Last night I finished up the yoke and put the sleeve stitches on stitch holders.  I’ve tried it on and the fit is perfect.  How I finish the body and sleeves will depend on how far my yarn goes.  If I run short of yarn I’m sure I can find something in my stash that I can use.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Sundara Yarn Super Sock

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Spinning Report - Skeins 15 and 16

After finishing up Skein 14 I saw that I didn’t have that much left of my latest bag of Heinz 57 so I decided to spin it up and keep working on my drafting and also the fineness of my singles.  The top was a bit more than I typically spin on a bobbin (I did not weight it, but have calibrated my eye for how full I like my bobbins to get about 40 grams of single per bobbin) so when I reached that point and still had fiber left I did another bobbin.  This gave me four bobbins, two with about 40 grams and two with about 15 grams.  First I plied up the two 40 gram bobbins and ended up with this beautiful skein of fingering weight yarn.  It came in at 82 grams and 347 yards, or 4.21 yards/gram.  Spun on my Kromski at 16:1, plied on my Kiwi at 15:1.

After finishing that skein I took the two bobbins that had the smaller amount, and the leftovers from Skein 14 and weighed them all.  Then I put them on my Lazy Kate (lightest at top, heaviest at bottom) and made my first 3-ply yarn.  Spun on my Kromski at 16:1, plied on my Kiwi at 7.5:1.

It came out perfect.  100 yards, 36.5 grams, or 3.65 grams/yard.  I posted a picture of it in the Sheepspot Guild for the Friday spinning check-in, and was recognized in the spin of the week.  The challenge for May was a new to you ply, and this was mine.  I haven’t dyed it yet and I want to make some more 3-ply.  I’m thinking colorwork socks, but we’ll see what I end up doing with it.  I’m getting a little faster with the plying, still syncing my treadling with my drafting, but settling in to a nice rhythm.

Rosemary - Cast On!

One of the skeins in Box F1, which I am working my way through (more or less) is this luscious red skein of Alpha B Yarn by Elite B.  It is 80% Superwash Merino, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon, and came to me as part of Janel Laidman’s Knitterati club, so it is a two-fer.  It continues my knitting up of the Knitterati club patterns (at least the sock patterns), and helps me knit up the yarn in Box F1.

As can be seen in the picture, it is knit toe-up, which is a sock construction method that I truly enjoy, although I am not doing any special shaping on the toe.  I used Judy Becker’s magic cast on, as slightly modified by the Sockmatician.  This design has lots of cables.

Pattern:  Rosemary by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Alpha B Yarn by Elite B

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm)

 

Taliesin Socks - Finished!

And they are done!  The second sock went quickly, although I did have a couple of tinking episodes.  My pick up on the gusset on the right hand side wasn’t right, but I didn’t realize it until I had worked a couple of rows, so I had to tink that back and do it over.  The second issue was during the toe graft when my back needle slipped and I dropped a stitch and didn’t realize it right away and the stitch dropped down two rows before I caught it, but I did catch it.  I got out my neck lamp, undid the entire graft (which admittedly was only 13 stitches) and redid it.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Sock - One Sock Done!

Once I got to the foot, things went quickly.  I did not do the foot as it was designed in the pattern - there was some unusual shaping and I just didn’t want to deal with it.  Plus, when I’m knitting cuff down I like to shape my toes so that they actually match the shape of my real toes, which for a left foot involves doing most of my decreases on the left side as you might be able to see in the picture below.  When I get to the end of the foot I just keep trying on the sock as I go and making decreases as needed, recording what I’m doing (in this case on my Ravelry project page).  When I get to the end of the toe I graft the stitches while the sock is on my foot, so I can pull the stitches snug without worrying about them being too tight.   While it may be a tad awkward to do, when I do it this way my toe grafts always come out great.

I did discover that my gauge is not as tight as the gauge called for in the pattern.  I had already discovered that my row gauge was different when I was working the heel flap, as I only worked 26 rows instead of 32 as called for in the pattern.  I had my suspicions regarding the stitch gauge, but I needed a stretch of stockinette to get a decent stitch gauge measurement.  Once my suspicion was confirmed, I put in one of my afterthought lifelines and ripped back to the last gusset decrease and did an extra set of decreases on the top and bottom of the foot to take the stitch count down to 64 from 68 (I was making the medium size).

I do love working the heel turn and gusset, they still seem like magic to me.

This was probably the try on that led me to rip back.  I had only knit four or so rounds after the last gusset decrease.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Taliesin Sock - Two Legs Done!

Last night I finished up the leg on sock two.  This one went a bit faster as I mostly avoided the mistake I kept making on the first leg (starting the next round half way round the sock).  The pattern on the bottom half of the leg is mostly the same, just a little four row stitch pattern on the long column of stitches, and it was hard to read (dark yarn, tiny stitches).  I only had to tink back once on the second leg.  The progress keeper attached to the sock near the end of the round definitely helped keep me on track.  On to the heel flap.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Starry Night - Cast On!

As I was knitting my Kaya Tee I decided that I wanted to knit another one, in these two yarns, which were inspired by Van Gogh’s painting Starry Night.  This yarn is Sundara Yarn.  I love her colors and her Daily Dream emails, they are the only impulse yarn buys I am allowing myself at this point, and I do have a fair bit of her yarn in my stash.  Even before I had finished the first one I dug these out of my stash and on Monday I caked them up and cast on.  I did do things a little bit differently.  I am working the next size up (my first Kaya Tee was a size 2, this one is a size 3), I joined in the round immediately after cast on, did not go down a needle size for the first row and the first two rounds, and did not do any of the patterning on the first two rounds.  I just joined in the round after the cast on and started knitting.  The cast on edge curls as stockinette stitch will.  I may just leave it like that, I may work a single crochet round (as the pattern calls for) or I may work an I-cord.  If I do any embellishment I may do it in my contrast color, just for fun.

I did, of course, do the lace pattern in my contrast color.  I really do love how that band of lace looks in the yoke, and of course I added beads.  The beads are from Earthfaire, and came with the yarn that I used for my first Kaya Tee (they go with the purple yarn).  I am not working any of the textured stitch patterns in the main color as the yarn is variegated and I don’t think they will show up well, plus I like the mindless stockinette as I can read while I knit.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Sundara Yarn Super Sock

Needle:  US 6 (4.0 mm)

Taliesin Sock - One Leg, and One Cuff Finished!

Finally, I’ve finished the leg of one sock.  Dark yarn, and a stitch pattern that I kept messing up despite its apparent simplicity, even after I added a progress keeper as another visual queue for the beginning of the round, in addition to the yarn tail that I typically use.  Now I will work the leg on the other sock, having already worked the cuff and the Latvian braid on that one.  Hopefully I will not make as many mistakes on that one, and it will go quicker.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Kaya Tee - Finished!

After a marathon session on Friday I completed adding the length and grafted the two pieces back together again.  Everything went well and you can’t even tell that I did the surgery.  I also added stitches to the sleeves before I extended them, picking up three extra stitches on either side of the underarm in that section of knitting that always seems to get stretched out and distorted regardless of what you do and is always a source of holes that need to be closed up again.  I’ve picked up extra stitches in this area before, but this time I did not decrease them away as I needed that extra circumference and I am pleased with how they came out.  I think it gives a smoother underarm and will use this technique again in the future.  After blocking I checked my gauge again on the completed tee, and my gauge swatch did sort of lie, but really only because I knit the gauge swatch flat and this is worked in the round.  I didn’t think my gauge was that different but apparently it is different enough (in this case 1.5 stitches and 2 rows tighter over 4 inches).  Lesson learned.  The top fits, not much positive ease, but at least not negative, and the yarn (Extrafine Merino Wool) is very soft and feels great against the skin.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Araucania Yarns Huasco Multy Botany Lace

Needles:  US 4 (3.5 mm), US 6 (4.0 mm), Hook G (4.0 mm)

Kaya Tee - Body Done!

And it is too short!  I tried it on, I am not into the cropped look, and not even an aggressive block is going to save this one.  To be clear, my gauge swatch did not lie, I just wasn’t listening to it the way I should have been.  I did know that my row gauge was tighter (32 rows vice 28 rows per four inches) and I added extra length to make up for that.  I just didn’t add enough extra length.  I also added extra length to the yoke, and that did work out.  While I was pondering what to do to solve this problem I went ahead and worked the sleeves, adding extra length to them as well and using up most of the purple yarn (2.6 grams left).   My stitch gauge is also a little tighter, so there is not much ease, but at least it is not negative ease!

Fortunately I have a convenient place to take the knitting apart to add length, right after that first blue section on the body.  So, I put in two of my Clover Circular Stitch Holders and started pulling out the row in between them (the last blue row of that section).

I really love these stitch holders.  I use them as after-thought life lines, and to put stitches on hold (I have two shorter ones holding the sleeve stitches in the first photo).

Here is a photo part way through the separation process.  I ended up cutting the piece of yarn that I was pulling out once it got too long to handle easily.  I didn’t need it, and it was getting a little worn.

And here are the two pieces separated.  I’ve put the stitches from the top back onto my needle, attached my yarn ball to the tail of the yarn that I ripped out and have started knitting.  I’m going to just do stockinette.  I thought about repeating the motif, but just don’t feel like working it over and over again.  Once I’ve added enough length I’ll graft the two pieces back together.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Araucania Yarns Huasco Multy Botany Lace

Needle:  US 4 (3.5 mm), US 6 (4.0 mm)

Taliesin Socks - Take Two!

So I was working on these socks this afternoon and thinking “man, this gauge is really tight, what needle size am I using?  And why?”  Well, I was using a 2.25 mm (US 1).  The pattern calls for. 2.5 mm, which is also labeled as a US 1, although Ravelry calls it a US 1.5.  I frogged and started over and it is so much easier to work, and it fits better.  This time when I did the Latvian braid I didn’t bother with casting on the extra stitch at the start.  I just worked the first stitch, put it back on the left hand needle and then knit in to the back of the second stitch and then into the first stitch.  Rinse, repeat.

Pattern:  Taliesin by Janel Laidman

Yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh Sock in Flashdance

Needle:  US 1.5 (2.5 mm)

Tessellation Nation - Bottom Edge Pentagons Done!

I finished up the pentagons, and the boats, diamonds, and stars in the bottom edge of my Tessellation Nation.  I pulled out the 5 petal flower that I had set in because I didn’t like the color vibe that was going on.  I ordered a color card to make it easier to pick colors.  I am starting to second guess my plan for this blanket.  There are some amazing blankets in the Facebook group.   I don’t know, I’ll let it sit, and maybe play around on photopea some more.

Pattern:  Tessellation Nation by Sue Maton

Yarn:  Scheepjes Terrazzo

Hook:  3.75 mm (F) and 3.5 mm (E)

Kaya Tee - Yoke Done!

This past week I focused on this project to give my hands a rest from the sock knitting and the crochet and I finished up the yoke.  I will confess that I was get a bit tired of the textured patterning, even though I do like the look and was relieved to get to straight stockinette (which lets me read while I knit!).  Turns out my gauge was not quite as spot on as I thought it was, my row gauge is tighter than the pattern calls for (32 rows vice 28 rows), yes I know that is a fair bit of difference.  If I had gone up to a US 7 maybe I could have made that gauge work, but I doubt if I would have liked the fabric (too loose, I’ve knit fingering on US 7 needles, and it is always too loose).  So, I’m sticking with what I have.  I like the fabric and it fits.  It might have a little less ease than the pattern calls for, but that is okay, so far it fits me just fine, and it looks like I’ll be fine on the yarn usage as well, even though I will use more.  And if I do run short I have some of the same base in the teal that I used for the gauge swatch that I can use if I absolutely have to, and I know just where I would use it.  I enjoy these kinds of knitting challenges.  Overall I like the pattern and am thinking of making more with some of the Artyarns that I have in my stash, although I may skip the patterning and just do the lace.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa 

Yarn:  Araucania Yarns Huasca Multy Botany Lace

Needles:  US 6 (4.0 mm) and US 4 (3.5 mm)

Kaya Tee - Cast On & Chart A Done!

What?  Casting on another project?  I am supposed to be reducing the number of projects I have on the needles, not increasing them!  But, yes, I did cast on another project this past weekend.  Since I retired I have been working on two things (among many others), finishing up (or frogging) unfinished objects, and knitting from stash.  Being an engineer, and also not a fan of expending energy making decisions that ultimately don’t really matter, I simply grabbed the first box of fingering weight yarn in my stash and opened it up, determined to knit everything in there.  At one point I had gone through my voluminous stash and sorted and cataloged (on Ravelry) and boxed everything that I had (at that time).  I sorted by fiber weight, and then alphabetically by fiber manufacturer/maker, so this box (F1) has yarns that start with the letter A.  My Lightning Thief shawl was knit with yarn that came from this box, and so is this project.  In fact it is the exact same yarn brand - Araucania Huasca.

I also bought this yarn from Earth Faire as a kit 10 years ago, and according to my Ravelry stash page it was supposed to become a Vestland Shawl, but when I went and looked at that pattern my response was “meh”, maybe not.  I have lots and lots of shawls, so how about a tee?  A quick Ravelry search led me to the Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa.  Two colors, and some pretty lace, to which I can add the beads that came with the yarn.  Yesterday I pulled the pattern in to knitCompanion, grabbed my leftover yarn from my Lightning Thief shawl, and knit up a gauge swatch.  The pattern calls for US 4 (3.5 mm) and US 6 (4.0 mm) needles, with the gauge given for stockinette on the US 6.  I knit my swatch with US 4, US 5, and US 6 needles, matched the US 6 gauge and, more importantly, like the fabric.

I caked up my two skeins (a lovely blue and lavender) and cast on.  It took me two tries to get the join looking neat because you actually knit one row after the cast on before joining in the round, but paying careful attention to the tension at the join was all it took.  Setting up the charts in knitCompanion was a little problematic as they were obviously not made using charting software as the columns were not a consistent width.  I briefly considered recharting them (I have charting software on my laptop computer as well as my iPad), but decided that I could work with what I had and it just wasn’t worth the effort.  I am delighted with how it is looking so far.  As preparation for taking the photo I put some Barber cord on the needles and stretched it out, and then popped it over my head and turned to my husband with a big smile and said “there!”.  Unfortunately he had just taken a sip of coffee and he started to laugh at the little collar over my t-shirt, which resulted in coffee up the nose, which got me laughing, and apologizing.

So why did I cast on, when I just picked up an unfinished object (the Taliesin Socks)?  Because working on socks for too long (and I will, just as I will crochet for too long) will cause muscle strains in my hands and forearms, plus the pointy needles poking my fingers (because I like pointy needles for working socks) make my fingers sore, and switching what I’m working on is the best way to avoid that.

Pattern:  Kaya Tee by Megumi Shinagawa

Yarn:  Araucania Yarns Huasca Multy Botany Lace

Needles:  US 4 (3.5 mm) and US 6 (4.0 mm)

Taliesin Socks - Cast On!

Actually I cast on these socks over a year ago (best guess - November of 2023), knit 9 rows of the ribbing and then just sort of forgot about them.  I discovered them when I was setting up my project box for Tessellation Nation.  The project was hiding in a Harris Tweed project bag that I had purchased from The Woolly Thistle.  When I had stashed it in the project bag I had failed to stash the yarn label with the yarn, so the first thing I did was hunt that down.  I have a large zip lock bag that has the Janel Laidman patterns along with yarn and that is where I found the yarn label, although I did go down a rabbit hole because there was a yarn label that had Taliesin Sock on it.  That yarn was used for the Damselfly Socks.  This yarn is Madelinetosh Tosh Sock in the Flashdance colorway.  The original skein was a total loss due to evil bugs, so it was pitched.  Fortunately I was able to procure another one.  The yarn does not match what is in the photo, but some sleuthing on Ravelry (looking at project pages for the pattern) allowed me to make the match.

I did not work the Latvian braid as she called for in the pattern (and in the video link she provided), with a second strand of yarn.  I worked a Latvian braid the way I learned how, where you make a stitch, put it back on the left hand needle, then knit into the back of the second stitch, and the front of the first stitch and drop them both off the left hand needle.  Then you transfer the first stitch on the right hand needle to the left hand needle as if to knit and repeat.  A video by Romi showed me how to join when I got to the end of the round.  You do end up with an extra stitch, so I did a decrease at the beginning of my second needle (I work on two circulars).  I also changed out the beads as I wasn’t crazy about the ones that were provided with the pattern.  Fortunately I have an excellent bead stash.

Pattern:  Taliesin Sock by Janel Laidman

Yarn:  Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Needle:  US 1 (2.25 mm0

Lightning Thief - Finished!

As is typical for me, once I get to a certain point in a project I focus on it until it is finished.  So last week I focused on finishing up Lightning Thief, working the rest of Chart B, and the bind off.  The bind off was a bit of a slog.  Not hard, per se, once I saw the pattern and got into the rhythm, but it still required focus, and time.

Blocking also took time (an hour), as every one of those picots had to be pinned out.  To do it I put three fingers of each hand into the loops (like a cat scratching) and pulled to stretch out the knitting, then I switched my left hand to the first three loops while I pinned with my right hand, being careful to pin into the picot.  Once they were pinned I repeated for the second three loops.  Once all the picots were pinned out I could then do the fine adjustments to get them all laying neatly, make sure my pin was solidly in the picot, and make sure things lined up neatly.

I did make one modification to the pattern, adding a bead on row 40 over the CDD so that the line of beads terminated neatly.

Pattern:  Lightning Thief by Lily Go

Yarn:  Araucanian Yarns Huasca Multy Botany Lace

 Needle:  US 5 (3.75 mm)